Jump to content
SAU Community

  

19 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Ok, my car (R33 GT-R) sees quite a bit of track time, and I've noted that the majority of RB26's run an oil catch tank. It is a hideously ugly solution IMHO.

Now the options I face are :

- Do nothing.

- Install cam cover baffles.

- Install the hideous oil catch tank thing.

Just like to get an idea of your experience with the above three options and any others that I don't even know about

Cheers

Jack

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274191-dealing-with-blowby/
Share on other sites

Frrk what it looks like, if it benefits your car and you need it, get it.

you can paint it, hide it or get some cool braided lines/tubing to make it look better.

I used to have blowby wrecking my life, got it all cleaned out by a mech, he said i should get a catch can to fix my probl;em ( my car kept stalling).

I decided to do nothing, but coz i dnt take my car to the track or run boost, dnt think i really need one. car runs fine without one.

I'd say get one if it sees the track a lot

you should see the Racepace catch tank in my car, work of art! better yet have a look at the ones RIPS in NZ do... drool

seriously though you need to run one... I destroyed a brand new HKS turbo in the old GTSt because I wasn't running a catch tank... some blowby got injected back into the intake pipe (that's where the stock breather is plumbed back into) and took out a few compressor blades

if your going to go to all the trouble of cam cover baffles then why not just hook up a catch tank? cheap insurance... but then again I reckon just do nothing and hope all will be okay... afterall 26's are bulletproof at the track and cheap to rebuild.................................. :P

Nope, to atmosphere is ok...

I actually run a/m cam baffles, oil/air separator and a catch can, and it's plumbed into intake.

It really does stop blowby a fair bit. High revs + high boost = lotsa blowby ish..... lol.

Yeah so a lot race organizations want you to install one and vent to atmosphere coz if your motor poos itself chances are oil will being pumped almost directly into your intake through your engine and then out of the exhaust creating massive smoke clouds and an oil soaked race track a hazard for everyone.

Venting to atmosphere will be less road legal (EPA issues) and could make normal daily driving less desirable due to oily burning toxic fumes getting into the cabin hence atmosphere and more pollution (EPA). But maybe a race track requirement to vent to atmosphere.

The purpose of venting the motor in the first place is to alleviate crack case pressure caused by blow by. every engine has blow by. back in the early days of motoring every engine was vented to atmosphere usually without a catch can. then roads were getting slippery the environment was being thought about etc etc. without venting the oil seals will leak. and you'll have oil leaks from ass hole to breakfast time. Technically a hose from vent hole to a coke bottle is a catch can and suffice if the motor is rooted and blowing heaps of smoke. been there done that lol.

you should see the Racepace catch tank in my car, work of art! better yet have a look at the ones RIPS in NZ do... drool

seriously though you need to run one... I destroyed a brand new HKS turbo in the old GTSt because I wasn't running a catch tank... some blowby got injected back into the intake pipe (that's where the stock breather is plumbed back into) and took out a few compressor blades

if your going to go to all the trouble of cam cover baffles then why not just hook up a catch tank? cheap insurance... but then again I reckon just do nothing and hope all will be okay... afterall 26's are bulletproof at the track and cheap to rebuild.................................. :blink:

Any chance you could post up a picture of the racepace catch can and how much it set you back??

I had a "performance mechanic" try and tell me the other week that I was pressurising the system due to having an atmo catch can and that it was the reason my intake plenum bolts were loose and had a greasy buildup around the gasket :S but yeah had already heard otherwise that venting the system to atmo was fine apart from the legalities of it.

you should see the Racepace catch tank in my car, work of art! better yet have a look at the ones RIPS in NZ do... drool

I have a RIPS one :) Combined washer/catch can. Looks great in the bay. Best pic i have ATM though..

MetalcastHigh.jpg

Only issue is, finding one 2nd hand. You dont even want to know how much RIPS want for them new :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...