Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys my 32gtr just had the hicas light come on, and know the steering is heavy and the speedo has stopped working as well.

What could be the problem with it ( new to gtr,s).

I can get it to come good again ,by turning the car off and back on again while driving, it also turns it into rear wheel drive which is good, but that only last for say five minutes then the light comes back on again, then heavy steering again.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274356-steering-heavy-on-32gtr/
Share on other sites

If he can get it to work again, then it can't be the speedo cable.

Try checking the P/S fluid level.

The steering will work for a little while, then the HICAS will spit the dummy due to signal loss. This is when the steering becomes heavy.

works for five minutes? works if you turn off/on while rolling? goes into RWD?

that is prob because it cant get a stationary reading from the abs sensors, then when you stop, it sets itself up(awd/hicas/PS)...

I would save f**king around with trial/error, and go to someone who knows skylines. Stopping/steering i leave too professionals

2LV8ETR and Cerbera are bang on the money. It will be problem with the speedo cable, I will put a beer on it that it is the square drive end that goes into the rear of the cluster, seperating from the cable itself. And I LIKE beer, more than people some days..

The hicas module doesn't see any change in speed but sees other inputs changing so after a short time it provides an output that has been determined to be safe over a wide range of vehicle speeds. The key off on just resets the timer, goes into rwd cos you made the attessa module freak be being in motion when it came back online, so it faulted to rear only.

You have to remember that not a lot of mechanics have any experience with these vehicles, even nissan doesn't want to deal with them, so we do most of the work ourself, learning from each other. Enthusiasts I think we are called. I am not a mechanic, or an auto monkey of any sort, but the electrics in my bunky I wouldn't let anyone else work on, having been through almost every part of the system in this steaming pile over the last two years.. Much rather bend my back, and use my brain than hand over my hard earned to someone else to learn.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...