Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.. i just brought a manual boost controller and installed into my r32, one hose is coming from the wastegate to the boost controller then the other hose comes from the turbo. is that right? cause when i brought the car there was 2 hoses already there but they were connected.

when it hit boosts then the car started jerking. it sounds like its hitting the a limiter. but i dont know wats going on? can anyone help :)

thanks guys

hey guys.. i just brought a manual boost controller and installed into my r32, one hose is coming from the wastegate to the boost controller then the other hose comes from the turbo. is that right? cause when i brought the car there was 2 hoses already there but they were connected.

when it hit boosts then the car started jerking. it sounds like its hitting the a limiter. but i dont know wats going on? can anyone help :)

thanks guys

Sounds like you are hitting boost cut which would mean it is more than likely not hooked up correctly. Have you made sure the boost controller is turned right down?

Also have you got the hoses round the right way? does it have an arrow or some indication on which hose should go to wastegate?

Also usually the other hose needs to pick up manifold pressure but you say it is hooked to turbo can you be more specific?

Also what type of boost controller do you have?

In most cases there will be an arrow on the tee, make sure this side points to the wastegate.

Secondly, you've got the boost wound up too high and it's hitting the boost cutout. Make sure you screw the adjuster all the way in so that if you were to blow into it, no air would escape the opposite side. Then perform your road test and wind the adjuster out in small increments until the desired boost level is achieved.

As above, make sure its around the right way, if you don't, the actuator wont see any signal = lots of boost, boost cut and eventual FAIL.

Oh, and even if you don't do it for anything else. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS for this one.

Edited by Yeedogga

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
    • Looks like whiteline don't do springs any more, part# used to be 70191 from a search. Any spring for a 32/33 GTR should fit, just look for something factory not lowered/firmer unless that is your goal
×
×
  • Create New...