Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was informed by Main North Nissan today that they have three owners with the clicking problem at the moment and are narrowing down the cause on a test mule. So they told me to hold off bringing in mine till they sort it out. I told them about the info available on the US forums regarding missing top anti rattle springs and loose tie rod ends and it appeared to be news to them! We'll see if they can come up with a permanent fix soon.

Theres a few different things the clicking noise can be. There is the pins through the calipers have a small piece on them which can rattle over bumps, and also puting a slight bit of grease on the wheel to hub matting face seems to fix a few of them when its not the pins. Alot of them its from the drivetrain, and is normal operating noise.

  • 1 month later...

Went to book my car in to Main North Nissan to fix my rattle/creaking front wheels only to be informed by the Asst Service manager that they have NO fix for the problem and theres nothing I can do except drive around with an embarrassing noise coming from my wheels on even mild turning now. I asked him if Nissan is happy with the situation that their premier model sounds like a 20 year old clunker and even causes heads to turn for all the wrong reasons when maneuvering around a shopping centre car park. He didn't seemed to perturbed by that idea. So what should I do now? Kick up a big stink with Nissan HQ and argue that if a camry made that noise they would definitely fix it and that I find it amazing that Nissan cant find a fix for something that clearly does not afflict every GT-R out there? Do you think its concern that if it is brake related that they are up for the whole shebang 4x rotors and pads if thats what it takes to fix it? Id at least have a go at the anti rattle clip solution, i mean what have they got to lose?

Thoughts please?

just had moorooka nissan fix this for me last week during the POS.

perhaps your guys can call moorooka?

they cleaned down the interface between the rotor and hub and applied grease.

not there anymore.

I am not sure how long this fix lasts as some people have this recur.

Last time i had this clicking noise, i tightended the tie rod ends and it went away. However, i need to report back and say it came back a few days later. I had a track day a couple of weeks later (swapped track wheels and road tyres a couple of times) and the noise has been absent since. I've never done any deliberate cleaning of hubs etc. I'm really starting to wonder if anyone knows what this problem actually is. Could it be something simpler, like the hub making this noise if the wheel nuts aren't torqued properly? Maybe just try torqueing the wheel nuts to try? I know it sounds silly but i would give it a try if you can be stuffed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...