Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys im planning on getting these wheels of a mate of mine in brisbane this is all that was given to me. he told me to check if it is possible before the go ahead. 5-120, 20x8.5

help please?

Sorry mate. Is that 5x120?

If yes. The answer is No. V35 need 5x114.3 to fit.

Frank

weaksauce

:D

Hate to see what you'd type on the oem 18's then lol!

I actually want to change my wheels too but really poor atm.. It'd only be for aesthetics though. I think the oem 18x8 on v35's are quite light (around 10kg iirc). However, i'm not too keen on running say a 9.5 on the rear etc then having to fit a big tire and giving the car too much grip..I like how it's balanced now - perfect (for me).

Hate to see what you'd type on the oem 18's then lol!

OEM rims have the benefit of being free with the car. There's no shame in rocking out poor offset and widths when you didn't pay for it.

Most 20x8.5s I've seen have had pretty weak offsets too, since they're designed for ricewagons (like sik WRXs) that can't run nice offsets. If I see another guy on 350Z-Tech wanting to know if they should run 20x8.5 +40 I will headbutt something.

However, i'm not too keen on running say a 9.5 on the rear etc then having to fit a big tire and giving the car too much grip..I like how it's balanced now - perfect (for me).

Why not upgrade the front and rear together, and keep the ratio the same? Or just run a wider rim, and strech an OEM sized tyre onto it?

If you upgrade the tyre widths all round by the same number, the ratio's of width front/rear remains so similar there's not much in it. You could just change the pressures to fine tune the balance afterwards.

:D

Hate to see what you'd type on the oem 18's then lol!

I actually want to change my wheels too but really poor atm.. It'd only be for aesthetics though. I think the oem 18x8 on v35's are quite light (around 10kg iirc). However, i'm not too keen on running say a 9.5 on the rear etc then having to fit a big tire and giving the car too much grip..I like how it's balanced now - perfect (for me).

I loose traction quite easily still with a 295 on the rear....... granted that only 2/3 of it is only making contact with the road............

To scathing, since you sound like you know your stuff in terms of the wheels size and offsets.

what do you recommend on the 19" and 20" for a perfect fit, looks and feel on the road?

can you also incorporate having the car an inch or inch and half lower.

thanks mate.

Mark (Blistc) whats the full spec on your wheels at the moment? i can probably relate to you more since both of our car are dropped!

To scathing, since you sound like you know your stuff in terms of the wheels size and offsets.

what do you recommend on the 19" and 20" for a perfect fit, looks and feel on the road?

can you also incorporate having the car an inch or inch and half lower.

thanks mate.

Mark (Blistc) whats the full spec on your wheels at the moment? i can probably relate to you more since both of our car are dropped!

current setup is 19 x 9.5 +8 Front 265/30/19 tyres | 19 x 10.5 +18 Rear 295/30/19 Tyres -2.5 Degrees Camber All 4 Corners. Top of Rim / Tyre sit flush with guards, poke out mid - bottom.

Car lowered on TEIN Comfort Sport Coilovers. Car is only about 50mm off the ground right now as it sits............

Nagisa Auto Rear Camber, Rear Toe, Front Camber Arms as well in order to correct the camber to get it to sit the right way i want it

To scathing, since you sound like you know your stuff in terms of the wheels size and offsets.

what do you recommend on the 19" and 20" for a perfect fit, looks and feel on the road?

If the camber hardware is stock then the accepted "best fitment" is 9.5" +22 front and 10.5 +22 rear, even if you lower the car. There's no front camber adjustment at all, and limited rear camber adjustment, on our cars. You can get away with a few mm each way but since most people opt for Volks they're the most common offsets for those widths.

With the suspension geometry, if you lower the car the wheel naturally cambers in (as if it was being compressed that much from the stock height due to load). As long as you don't hit the end of the suspension travel and rub the inner guard, the height is irrelevant to clearance.

I've got 18" wheels in those widths and offsets on my Z33. I've run a 265/35 R18 and 285/35 R18 with as little rear camber as the suspension allows. My guards aren't rolled, and that setup doesn't rub. If you go 19" with the same tyre circumference, it should be the same.

Here's what mine looked like:

my350z_20070929_nightshots_09.jpg

Theoretically you can go wider. I've seen a US-based 350Z running 18x10.5 +15 all round while lowered, but the front looked a bit retarded (the wheels stick out a lot). The guards were rolled and he had aftermarket camber bits. I think he was running 3-4 degrees of neg.

Mark would be the best to ask if you want to push the limits of offset with modified guards.

As for 19" vs 20", of course dropping the tyre profile and increasing the unsprung weight is going to have negative effects on handling and performance.

As for looks, that's in the eye of the beholder. I personally like a reasonable amount of sidewall on a tyre, but the V35 looks more awesome with big diameter wheels than my Z33, so for me I'd probably run 19".

If I were to get a V35, I'd probably run a 19x9.5 front and a 20x10.5-11.0" rear (I want to go as wide as possible for aesthetics). The offsets would be in the mid teens and I'd run a touch of neg camber, but not more than around 2-2.5 degrees.

Edited by scathing

Oh yeh i forgot to mention

i had to roll my rear guards, just roll the lip underneath.

When the car is fully loaded with people, (2 people in the back) the tyre clears the guard by around 2mm. You cant fit anything between the tyre and the guard, not even a coin. Suprisingly, i couldnt hear the rear scrubbing at all and i was driving on the shitty part of hume highway at bass hill area too........ so i am very happy with my setup.

please note i still have stock guards, they are just lipped underneath on the rear. The front there is no need and it more than enough clearance and no scrubbing at all

also i remember people asking me at the meetup "where did i get my 20's" to be surprised they were only 19" - its all about the stance.

Edited by BLISTC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...