Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've had a head unit installed so far.

Alpine ida - X305

i've got an Alpine 10" type R sub in a box that my mate is gonna give to me.

wondering what amps to get..

i was hoping to install the amps in the side compartments in the back where the factory CD stacker goes (i didnt get one tho :) )

or in one of the lift up compartments in the back. i dont want to be mounting anywhere custom as i cringe about someone hacking at my interior.

the easier, the better

so far i was thinking of getting an Alpine MRP-F300 for the speakers (not changing them as of just yet)

and an Alpine MRP-M500 for the sub :P

will give me a bit of extra bass thats tight cos thats all i'm looking for at the moment.

i'll be having the sub set up against the back seats i think.

any ideas from anyone ? :)

do i need to go that far with 2 amps? or is there an easier option for some extra bass.

i might have a go at installing it myself..... although i'm sure i may need some help :)

Edited by atomaly
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275431-audio-for-the-rs4s/
Share on other sites

better change the speakers, especialy if you have the factory ones, they wont handle the extra power of a power amp.

any help you need just ask mate, im in preston and work in port melb, just let me know :P

better change the speakers, especialy if you have the factory ones, they wont handle the extra power of a power amp.

any help you need just ask mate, im in preston and work in port melb, just let me know :ermm:

thanks man :P i'm only going to be running the factory speakers until i can afford some alpines or something.

so u say for the moment just get the mono amp and run the sub? and get the other amp when i get the new speakers?

Why not get a 5channel? Jaycar sell digital 5 channel amps that will run your whole system and can easily fit under either of the front seats (Good for keeping thieves away)

I have one of their digital 4 channels under my seat running my front MB Quart 6.5in splits and my cadence sub and it does a mighty fine job

Why not get a 5channel? Jaycar sell digital 5 channel amps that will run your whole system and can easily fit under either of the front seats (Good for keeping thieves away)

I have one of their digital 4 channels under my seat running my front MB Quart 6.5in splits and my cadence sub and it does a mighty fine job

thats a great idea too, means 1 amp and everythings done... less wiring to worry about, no power distros and the like.

My set up in the stag is rather big, 2x Alpine MRD-M300 mono amps running the 2 Type S 12" subs, 1 x Alpine MRV-F540 4 Ch running the front splits (Active, 75W into each woofer and tweeter) :P:ermm:.. Fronts are Focal polyglass 165's

upgrades are a few more amps, 1 for the 8" Mids that are going in the doors and 2 for the 5" Subs that will be going in the front foot wells ;):(

thats a great idea too, means 1 amp and everythings done... less wiring to worry about, no power distros and the like.

My set up in the stag is rather big, 2x Alpine MRD-M300 mono amps running the 2 Type S 12" subs, 1 x Alpine MRV-F540 4 Ch running the front splits (Active, 75W into each woofer and tweeter) :D:D .. Fronts are Focal polyglass 165's

upgrades are a few more amps, 1 for the 8" Mids that are going in the doors and 2 for the 5" Subs that will be going in the front foot wells :):)

sounds like a good idea.. i'm having a look at the new range.. the Alpine PDX-5 is a 5 channel but the output for the sub is only 2 ohms?? huh? i thought 4 ohms was standard for car audio?

the Alpine MRV-F450 V12 also sounds like a good option. its 5 channel 4ohm.

its discontinued but i may be able to pick one up second hand!.. i presume though that the newer amps would be "better" though in most aspects??

i also had an opinion to just get a 4 channel amp. bridge 2 for the sub output and go for high quality splits in the front. since my rear door ones are probably no point having since i barely have rear passengers!

home audio is so much easier :)

amp: Yamaha receiver.

fronts: Aaron Ats-4

Centre: Aaron CC-120

rears: Aaron Ats-3

samsung series 6.. 46" HD LCD TV

seeeeeeeee :P

i'll prob pop into Stylyn on a weekend when i get some free time see what they think :spam:

subs are either Alpine subs now are either Dual 4 ohm or Dual 2 ohm, the dual 2's are good if you have got the amps to run an either 2 or 1 ohm loads, the dual 4's are nicer for normal guys that arent into SPL. i think ill be running 4x dual 2ohm. in a series parallel system... big bass :P

also try Garry's car radio Heidleberg, and GL Pro sound in essendon for price comparrasons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...