Jump to content
SAU Community

Noisey Diff When Cold

sly32
 Share

Recommended Posts

sly32 Proficient

sly32

Posted
Posted

Hey,

well my diff started making a bit of a noise when i would first drive down the road, very soon after like with in about 15secs it would be on off with the noise and about 30secs later have no real noise at all,

so i decided possibly not enough oil? as it got a good coating it stopped making noise, but the diff also had a bit of a vibration i thought at higher speeds like 120 or maybe it was just because of the solid bushes i put on the sub frame,

i did a oil change, plenty of oil in there, but stuck to the magnet is a little ball bearing, like the size of a bb gun pellet, been sctrached up and there was a bit of sludge so i dont know how warn down it has gotten, im guessing it wouldnt have been much as when the outside of a bb goes it becomes very soft,

any idea's of what would run this size ball bearings? im guessing it could have something to do with the lsd (its a factory viscous R33 Diff), i really dont think it would be a bearing going for the drive shaft as its to small for that i feel, im going to pull the diff out today so hopefully i should have some more pics soon of what bearings it is,

if any1 knows what bearing this could be and part numbers etc to buy some more that would be good,

Cheers JV

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275535-noisey-diff-when-cold/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...