Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Guaging interest. Its time for a new toy.

Make: Nissan

Model: HCR32 GTS-T

Engine: RB20DET

Colour: Black

KMs: 97,000

Trans: 5spd Manual

:::::Exterior Dress:::::

-R32 GTR Alloy Front Guards (Just painted)

-R32 GTR Fibreglass Front Bar (Just painted)

-17x7.5 Front and 17x8.5 Rear Enkeis

-Bootlid Shaved and holes filled in and painted

-Tinted windows

:::::Interior:::::

-DBX Front Drivers seat (Passengers seat not put in yet but that will be included with the car)

-Autotechnia Steeringwheel

-Razor Metal Shift Knob

-Soon to be installed EL Dials which go upto 240kmh

:::::Performance:::::

-Dr_Drift remapped ECU

(no llimiters, tuned to run 14psi, perfect AFRs)

-3" Exhaust from Turbo back (very quiet)

-POD Filter

-Daiken Exedy Racing Clutch

-Bleed Valve

-Adj. Damper shocks

-CUSCO front strut bar

Last dynoed 22/2/03: 142.5rwkw http://members.optushome.com.au/nikora/DYNOSHEETS.jpg

Bottom sheet was when it only had a catback.... since the top sheet was done i've added the front and dump pipe and a bit more boost.

http://members.optushome.com.au/nikora/car/dyno.jpg

0-400m - 14.08 @ 93.16mph running 10psi (can run 13psi quite safely but never got to up the boost that night, Highest MPH that night was 98 so it can move when it wants to :))

Has been well looked after... first Australian owner after privately importing it thru someone i know in Japan. Oil and filter changed every 5000kms. Only ever used Shell Helix Ultra... just changed the plugs 100ks ago with NGK Platinums.

Pretty much just looking for interest at the moment as i would prefer to sell it later on once i have fixed up a few things (nothing major just need a decent set of rails for the front seat as it sits very high and me being 6ft 2 and having a higher than std seat isnt the easiest of things, that and repainting the engine bay parts to not such a bright colour :) can be done to what ever colour u want...)

http://members.optushome.com.au/nikora/car...ar/fronside.jpg

http://members.optushome.com.au/nikora/car/front.jpg

http://members.optushome.com.au/nikora/car...r/backside2.jpg

http://members.optushome.com.au/nikora/car/front2.jpg

http://members.optushome.com.au/nikora/car/side1.jpg

http://members.optushome.com.au/nikora/car/side.jpg

Any interest [email protected] would be a good platform to build on... already has the tough GTR front end... add a FMIC and hiflow the turbo with a few other minor mods and hold on to ur hats :)

If anyone wants to have a look at it just email me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27557-1992-hcr32-gts-t-fs-melb/
Share on other sites

forgot to add... will chuck in a set of stock 16" rims with it with decent tread left, the stock GTST guards (incase something happens) and another bootlid.

EDIT::

10months rego

  • 4 months later...

replied.

:)

btw a few things have changed now....

OBX seats no longer fitted... instead has 32 GTR seats in excellent condition in passenger and drivers side.

Now only has stock wheels with 2 of those 17" rims as spare.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...