Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think the TB48 all by itself is a better option without a different head... i think you can stroke them to 5litres too??? i just never thought about one of them in lil ol silvia. big engines.

dammit. i have two rb30's here and now i want a Tb48!!!!! lol.

post-41232-1246332214_thumb.jpg

seems there is support for them too http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/tb48.shtml

Theres a stroker kit already available from Brian Crower ex usa. Takes it out to 5.1 litres.

The existing twin cam head looks like a derivative of the 25 neo head to me. I am guessing all the potential is already there for big valve and port job etc.

yeh...billet alloy block would be fricken cool....lol billet titanium block would be even cooler :blink:

I get a hard on thinking about this stuff :):):)

No shit billet alloy block would be f**king sick, I think RIPS in NZ has hinted at billet alloy blocks before (I read is a thread somewhere on the UK forums).

Sainty's can do you an alloy block but not much good for anything else but drag racing as they have no water jackets. They do an external oil feed rail to feed each bearing journal.

An aftermarket VQ38 block maybe in the pipeline for a PRO FX drag car soon. The rules state an OEM cylinder head or block must be used so if built it will wear factory R35 GTR heads, a billet block, run twin HKS T51R SPL turbo's, drink methanol and be good for 2000hp+.

Definately something that will put a scare into the 2JZ camp.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Sainty's can do you an alloy block but not much good for anything else but drag racing as they have no water jackets. They do an external oil feed rail to feed each bearing journal.

An aftermarket VQ38 block maybe in the pipeline for a PRO FX drag car soon. The rules state an OEM cylinder head or block must be used so if built it will wear factory R35 GTR heads, a billet block, run twin HKS T51R SPL turbo's, drink methanol and be good for 2000hp+.

Definately something that will put a scare into the 2JZ camp.

Wow, that sounds pretty insane, with a Vipec V88 I would hope Paul!!!

Possibly a stupid question... is it possible to manufacture a billet block with water jackets?

of course. but the only reason for a billet block is to get massive HP. massive HP is only needed in drag racing and drag racing doesn't require water cooling because the whole thing is over in less than 8 seconds.

you could get a billet block for circut but really a track car with too much HP to handle is not much good to anyone. you can only use as much power as you can put down.

I investigated the RD28 when researching my RB26 stroker engine build. I have source a service manual in PDF format if anyone wants me to email them a copy, just PM me.

The basic engine specs are 85 bore, 83 stroke, 2826cc. Yes they have oil squirters. Con rod length is 140mm (close to SR20). This means the block is about 20mm taller than an RB25/26. It wouldnt be a stretch to throw an RB30 crank with some SR20 rods and RB30 pistons into one of these and have a 3lt with out the massively tall block of the RB30, and still have a respectable 1.6:1 ish rod ratio.

But as has been mentioned here the block is much heavier. I wonder how much of that extra weight is in the deck area of the block too (top heavy), to help contain combustion of the high compression diesal burn without distorting the block. While this all sounds great for a strong engine, but that doenst mean it would be streetable. This added strength and material would reduce cooling efficency of the bores, and as unleadded burns much hotter than diesal that could be a problem. If your goal is 1400+ hp chances are your burning methanol though, so cooling wont be an issue for you.

I think the costs of converting an RD block with its gains vs sleeving an RB25/26 would be negligible. It costs about $2k to prep a RB26 block for a high power build and fit with tall liners for open deck stroker. If you want "block reliability" above 1000 hp just use better sleeves.

or go to U-pull it and rip out an RB30e check it out and if no good pull another out and pay 80bucks for a block like i'v done twice now.

sleeve it if you want but probably no need when you can just refresh the bores in the usual manners. build it as strong as you like. perfect square ratio.

drag racing then you could have it grout filled or leave it be and enjoy the extra torque. i don't see the big deal with harmonics, only as good as your balance and balancer.

then the only issue is how strong your rods are. as obviously the longer the stroke the higher the piston speed at the same RPM. Not really an issue with forged rods.

anyway sorry i'v drifted OT again :P

I would love to make one just for the sake of making it, obviously money would be a big hold up, that 90million would have helped alot haha....the whole 'cool' factor is overwhelming in itself, plus having the added benefit of making the engine so much stronger and efficient in many ways is just awesome....you could incorporate as many changes as you want.... The engineering work in it is amazing, painfull at the start of the project no doubt, but just amazing!

Look at some you tube videos of 5 axis cnc's making billet alloy engine blocks...there are some very trick ones on there, v8 and w 16s :sick:

I would love to make one just for the sake of making it, obviously money would be a big hold up, that 90million would have helped alot haha....the whole 'cool' factor is overwhelming in itself, plus having the added benefit of making the engine so much stronger and efficient in many ways is just awesome....you could incorporate as many changes as you want.... The engineering work in it is amazing, painfull at the start of the project no doubt, but just amazing!

Look at some you tube videos of 5 axis cnc's making billet alloy engine blocks...there are some very trick ones on there, v8 and w 16s :rofl:

You are spot on, it is just dead cool!!! I work in an engineering office and when I go visit suppliers and machinist workshops I can watch the CNC machines go on for ages. Especially when they are machining alloy and rippin' into it with big cutters really fast!

I think it needs to be done, maybe just hand a machinist a N1 RB26 block and say "make one out of alloy". Material along would be at least $5-7k.

I'll snap some photos and sonic test the bores in this RD28 over the weekend. I have to start machining it then anyway.

There is an aluminium block coming soon for RB's, RB30 height, RB26 sump pattern, Darton sleeves etc. It sounds very impressive and a lot of work has gone into it. The block is cast, not billet. I'd say there will be some news about it in the not to distant future, won't be cheap though.

I'll snap some photos and sonic test the bores in this RD28 over the weekend. I have to start machining it then anyway.

There is an aluminium block coming soon for RB's, RB30 height, RB26 sump pattern, Darton sleeves etc. It sounds very impressive and a lot of work has gone into it. The block is cast, not billet. I'd say there will be some news about it in the not to distant future, won't be cheap though.

Cheers!

Finally someone is doing it!

Billet would be very nice, though no doubt this cast one will be machine finished in a CNC after and will look almost as good! Whether its as strong or not is another thing.

would you think something like 5-8k for it would be a reasonable price? Or is the thinking alot more? say 10K+? Whats your definition of not cheap?

Cheers!

Finally someone is doing it!

Billet would be very nice, though no doubt this cast one will be machine finished in a CNC after and will look almost as good! Whether its as strong or not is another thing.

would you think something like 5-8k for it would be a reasonable price? Or is the thinking alot more? say 10K+? Whats your definition of not cheap?

If it was billet I would have thought material alone would be over $5k, considering it is cast, the initial tooling cost would be huge. Then machining, insertion of sleeves, etc. Not f**king cheap would probably be more accurate!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...