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Diesel Block

craked

By craked,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
I think the TB48 all by itself is a better option without a different head... i think you can stroke them to 5litres too??? i just never thought about one of them in lil ol silvia. big engines.

dammit. i have two rb30's here and now i want a Tb48!!!!! lol.

post-41232-1246332214_thumb.jpg

seems there is support for them too http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/tb48.shtml

Theres a stroker kit already available from Brian Crower ex usa. Takes it out to 5.1 litres.

The existing twin cam head looks like a derivative of the 25 neo head to me. I am guessing all the potential is already there for big valve and port job etc.

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proengines
proengines

I've got an RD28 block here at the moment. The rear oil drain on one side is missing, it's slightly different timing wise at the front, set up with a high mount tensioner from the factory. The head bo

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bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
yeh...billet alloy block would be fricken cool....lol billet titanium block would be even cooler :blink:

I get a hard on thinking about this stuff :):):)

No shit billet alloy block would be f**king sick, I think RIPS in NZ has hinted at billet alloy blocks before (I read is a thread somewhere on the UK forums).

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sainty's can do you an alloy block but not much good for anything else but drag racing as they have no water jackets. They do an external oil feed rail to feed each bearing journal.

An aftermarket VQ38 block maybe in the pipeline for a PRO FX drag car soon. The rules state an OEM cylinder head or block must be used so if built it will wear factory R35 GTR heads, a billet block, run twin HKS T51R SPL turbo's, drink methanol and be good for 2000hp+.

Definately something that will put a scare into the 2JZ camp.

Edited by DiRTgarage
bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
Sainty's can do you an alloy block but not much good for anything else but drag racing as they have no water jackets. They do an external oil feed rail to feed each bearing journal.

An aftermarket VQ38 block maybe in the pipeline for a PRO FX drag car soon. The rules state an OEM cylinder head or block must be used so if built it will wear factory R35 GTR heads, a billet block, run twin HKS T51R SPL turbo's, drink methanol and be good for 2000hp+.

Definately something that will put a scare into the 2JZ camp.

Wow, that sounds pretty insane, with a Vipec V88 I would hope Paul!!!

Possibly a stupid question... is it possible to manufacture a billet block with water jackets?

GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted

of course. but the only reason for a billet block is to get massive HP. massive HP is only needed in drag racing and drag racing doesn't require water cooling because the whole thing is over in less than 8 seconds.

you could get a billet block for circut but really a track car with too much HP to handle is not much good to anyone. you can only use as much power as you can put down.

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

I investigated the RD28 when researching my RB26 stroker engine build. I have source a service manual in PDF format if anyone wants me to email them a copy, just PM me.

The basic engine specs are 85 bore, 83 stroke, 2826cc. Yes they have oil squirters. Con rod length is 140mm (close to SR20). This means the block is about 20mm taller than an RB25/26. It wouldnt be a stretch to throw an RB30 crank with some SR20 rods and RB30 pistons into one of these and have a 3lt with out the massively tall block of the RB30, and still have a respectable 1.6:1 ish rod ratio.

But as has been mentioned here the block is much heavier. I wonder how much of that extra weight is in the deck area of the block too (top heavy), to help contain combustion of the high compression diesal burn without distorting the block. While this all sounds great for a strong engine, but that doenst mean it would be streetable. This added strength and material would reduce cooling efficency of the bores, and as unleadded burns much hotter than diesal that could be a problem. If your goal is 1400+ hp chances are your burning methanol though, so cooling wont be an issue for you.

I think the costs of converting an RD block with its gains vs sleeving an RB25/26 would be negligible. It costs about $2k to prep a RB26 block for a high power build and fit with tall liners for open deck stroker. If you want "block reliability" above 1000 hp just use better sleeves.

GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted

or go to U-pull it and rip out an RB30e check it out and if no good pull another out and pay 80bucks for a block like i'v done twice now.

sleeve it if you want but probably no need when you can just refresh the bores in the usual manners. build it as strong as you like. perfect square ratio.

drag racing then you could have it grout filled or leave it be and enjoy the extra torque. i don't see the big deal with harmonics, only as good as your balance and balancer.

then the only issue is how strong your rods are. as obviously the longer the stroke the higher the piston speed at the same RPM. Not really an issue with forged rods.

anyway sorry i'v drifted OT again :P

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

I would love to make one just for the sake of making it, obviously money would be a big hold up, that 90million would have helped alot haha....the whole 'cool' factor is overwhelming in itself, plus having the added benefit of making the engine so much stronger and efficient in many ways is just awesome....you could incorporate as many changes as you want.... The engineering work in it is amazing, painfull at the start of the project no doubt, but just amazing!

Look at some you tube videos of 5 axis cnc's making billet alloy engine blocks...there are some very trick ones on there, v8 and w 16s :sick:

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
I would love to make one just for the sake of making it, obviously money would be a big hold up, that 90million would have helped alot haha....the whole 'cool' factor is overwhelming in itself, plus having the added benefit of making the engine so much stronger and efficient in many ways is just awesome....you could incorporate as many changes as you want.... The engineering work in it is amazing, painfull at the start of the project no doubt, but just amazing!

Look at some you tube videos of 5 axis cnc's making billet alloy engine blocks...there are some very trick ones on there, v8 and w 16s :rofl:

You are spot on, it is just dead cool!!! I work in an engineering office and when I go visit suppliers and machinist workshops I can watch the CNC machines go on for ages. Especially when they are machining alloy and rippin' into it with big cutters really fast!

I think it needs to be done, maybe just hand a machinist a N1 RB26 block and say "make one out of alloy". Material along would be at least $5-7k.

proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

I'll snap some photos and sonic test the bores in this RD28 over the weekend. I have to start machining it then anyway.

There is an aluminium block coming soon for RB's, RB30 height, RB26 sump pattern, Darton sleeves etc. It sounds very impressive and a lot of work has gone into it. The block is cast, not billet. I'd say there will be some news about it in the not to distant future, won't be cheap though.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted
I'll snap some photos and sonic test the bores in this RD28 over the weekend. I have to start machining it then anyway.

There is an aluminium block coming soon for RB's, RB30 height, RB26 sump pattern, Darton sleeves etc. It sounds very impressive and a lot of work has gone into it. The block is cast, not billet. I'd say there will be some news about it in the not to distant future, won't be cheap though.

Cheers!

Finally someone is doing it!

Billet would be very nice, though no doubt this cast one will be machine finished in a CNC after and will look almost as good! Whether its as strong or not is another thing.

would you think something like 5-8k for it would be a reasonable price? Or is the thinking alot more? say 10K+? Whats your definition of not cheap?

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
Cheers!

Finally someone is doing it!

Billet would be very nice, though no doubt this cast one will be machine finished in a CNC after and will look almost as good! Whether its as strong or not is another thing.

would you think something like 5-8k for it would be a reasonable price? Or is the thinking alot more? say 10K+? Whats your definition of not cheap?

If it was billet I would have thought material alone would be over $5k, considering it is cast, the initial tooling cost would be huge. Then machining, insertion of sleeves, etc. Not f**king cheap would probably be more accurate!

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