Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone tell me how much difference in performance a Twin Dump pipe can make compared to a 'Single' pipe unit?

The thing is my R33 is an Auto and all the custom exhaust shops keep recommending Twin dump pipes for Auto Turbo skylines

I know it provides better airflow for the internal wastegate but how much difference in boost are we talking about here?

thx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27566-twin-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites

well my car is a manual, but the split dump pipe i installed was really good! with more boost in just increased the ease of the car to rev out, alot smoother power up top! cant say if more, but the curve is ALOT better!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27566-twin-dump-pipe/#findComment-577435
Share on other sites

I added a few bits and pieces to the car a few weeks ago. I added CES dual front/dump pipe, and a bleed valve to my existing cat back and panel filter.

The car was dynoed before installing the new bits and made 126rwkw at standard boost. After the pipe and bleeder was put on I got an extra ~10rwkw @ 6psi! Less boost yet more power! Cant argue with that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27566-twin-dump-pipe/#findComment-581132
Share on other sites

wat i wanna know is someones experience with both, 3" single dump and the smaller one with seperate wastegate on the same car.....

though unlikely someone would change when they already had oen of them but it gives a better view of which ones more efficient...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27566-twin-dump-pipe/#findComment-581209
Share on other sites

dont know if split dump pipe makes a diff but we changed the dump pipe from a standard one to a custom one which attachs to a 3inch front pipe and down the quater we gained .2 of a sec (from 14.39 to 14.10) though i think there is still more in it. This is using the single dump pipe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27566-twin-dump-pipe/#findComment-583043
Share on other sites

Well the standard dump pipe isn't thermal coated or have the thermal wrap! so no doingthis should cause any further issues, but if you can do it, then bringing down under bonnet temps may give you more power!

my dump pipe is HPC coated and does a fair bit for bringing down the temps!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27566-twin-dump-pipe/#findComment-584795
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...