Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

where are you located?

S14 series 1 or 2?

R32-R34 conversion kit includes hood?

Im in Adelaide, it just says S14 vertex kit, im not sure what series it is.

And yea, conversion kit includes the hood, but it's not carbon fibre.

are the kits JSAI or Viva garage spec? or are they decent and don't need an exorcist and prayer to fit? have you got any pics of the kits themselves or others that are done by the manufacturer which you've personally got?

are the kits JSAI or Viva garage spec? or are they decent and don't need an exorcist and prayer to fit? have you got any pics of the kits themselves or others that are done by the manufacturer which you've personally got?

Im not sure cuz i haven't fitted one, but from the look of them they are pretty awesome.

And yea, they are done by the manufacturer, just check the pictures on google because they look exactly the same.

Cheers

Im not sure cuz i haven't fitted one, but from the look of them they are pretty awesome.

lol heard that before. we constantly get customers coming into the shop asking for kits for S14's and R32's and since doing one R324 kit, we've had another guy come in asking about one. But we've also got china brand stuff out of Viva etc and its just been shit quality, so if you can come up with photos of kits from the manufacturer you're buying from just so we can judge quality then we could probably take a couple of those off your hands.

includes paint job? how much extra for painted white?

sell sepratly? like only front bumber?

Oh no, it's just the kit mate, no paint or anything.

And only sell the whole kit cuz otherwise they will stuck in the workshop.

But overall it's a good deal.

If you wish to sell goods - you need to becoming a paying trader of the forum.

Seeing you are a business.

Do NOT attempt to make another account or sell anymore goods until such a time as you have paid.

Thanks.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...