Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right, so I'm getting the bits 'n pieces together to convert my Ceffy to use an RB25DET gearbox and one of the differences is the speedo drive (electronic in an R33 Skyline vs mechanical in the Cefiro).

So...instead of buying the Navara speedo drive, mangling it and then having to either live with my speedo being out or going to get it adjusted....is there a relatively cost-effective way to swap to using an electronic speedo? Did a bit of Googling but nothing obvious came up....

Cheers,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276394-electronic-speedo-convert/
Share on other sites

Here are some of my ideas.

Get your hands on an R33 cluster, disassemble it and try to fit the speedo section into your cefiro cluster. Can't guarantee this will be accurate as you will probably stuff the calibration when you remove and replace the needle.

Alternatively, get a cluster from a 180sx (or maybe S13) the models with a HUD had a digital readout on the cluster, you could put that into your cluster.

Either that or try and make the clusters fit in your dash, though you'll have to rewire the plugs on the back of the cluster.

You'll probably find the speedo will still be inaccurate depending on things like converting to manual from auto, different diff ratio, wheel/tyre size.

At least with an electronic speedo you can buy frequency adjusters from places like jaycar, Then you can compare it to something like a GPS and tweak the calibration yourself.

you could get an HKS Camp, Apexi Multichecker or any other digital readout device and plug it straight into your ECU. No gurantees on if it'll be accurate though. I use an Apexi Multichecker on my 32 as my speedo's out by a little bit.

  • 3 months later...

some what funny.. i had the same problem every one says change the speedo sensor. get your hands on a b14 sentra instrument panel. this speedometer is eletric and fits exactly into place of ypur old cable type one. run four wires coming out the back of it and hook it up only problem is it only goes to 180. but other than that u could change the wallpaper to match back your original instrument panel i did this conversion on a c33 instrument panel works fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
why not use the navara speedo sender and mount the r33 speedo wheel on it, still use the cable?

to me modifying that gear to fit wouldnt exactly be balance i rather just leave vital moving parts as is and looked for a alternative. mine works very well up to now and in my country i couldnt source the navara speedo so i just say lemme tell u guys what i did

  • 4 weeks later...
you could get an HKS Camp, Apexi Multichecker or any other digital readout device and plug it straight into your ECU. No gurantees on if it'll be accurate though. I use an Apexi Multichecker on my 32 as my speedo's out by a little bit.

But where does that electric signal to the ECU come from? I thought the speedo in the dash did the conversion from mechanical to electrical and sent it to the ECU?

I guess you could wire up the multichecker directly to the output on the R33 gearbox, though I seem to remember somewhere that the speedo still does some kind of conversion, meaning the speedo converts the electrical into a different format before sending it on to the ECU, in which case this plan wouldn't work. Best check an R33 wiring diagram to see if I'm talking out of my arse or not.

Also a Defi VSD would probably be a better option than a multichecker. That is what I'm using with my stock Ceffy to get an MPH readout since I'm in the UK. It works very well as my sole speedo.

Edited by Lum

Lum is correct, the speedometer converts the cable speed to an electrical signal and sends it to the ECU.

I would suspect that in the vehicles with speed sensors on the gearbox, that it goes directly to the ECU.

Items like the speed checker and defi VSD plug into the consult connector, which uses a serial connection to communicate and retrieve data from the ECU, so it is highly unlikely that you would beable to connect the speed sensor directly to any of these.

all you need is a navara speedo sender, the r33 speedo sender gear, mount the two together, make another cut in the navara speedo sender, works a treat. if thats too hard, use the navara whole unit but your speedo will be out by about 30ks at 1oo. the cefiro speedo cable will screw straight into the navara speedo sender, no need to modify the speedo cable

If i may also....what do the 25SE use?

Theyve got RB25DE, so would they have a 25 gearbox?

and if so...would they use eletrical or cable?

Either way, go to NZ and find a smashed up 25SE (yeah its sad but thats what they do over there).

Pretty sure the 25SE and the gts-25 use the smaller gearboxes (same as rb20).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...