Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, the day i thought never would come has, i think. Crusing down portrush rd today. Temp spiked to 100 degrees. pulled over instantly. split hose on the rear of the plenum, right at the back on the bottom. inside radiator has that unmistakable carbony smell.

Just need some advice.. should i fix the hose.. then take it to get diagnosed?? or just take it somewhere straight away??

help!! dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276694-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

Guys, the day i thought never would come has, i think. Crusing down portrush rd today. Temp spiked to 100 degrees. pulled over instantly. split hose on the rear of the plenum, right at the back on the bottom. inside radiator has that unmistakable carbony smell.

Just need some advice.. should i fix the hose.. then take it to get diagnosed?? or just take it somewhere straight away??

help!! dan

Fix your coolant leak good and proper. Fill with quality coolant and idle until warm. Shut down engine and let it cool. Once cool check the contents of the radiator. If its low and your oil dipstick looks like a chocolate milkshake, then I'd worry about getting the head pressure tested and machined to be level. If coolant level okay and oil normal, still run a compression test to ensure no compression leak as a result of the overheating.

:(

Edited by RubyRS4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276694-r33-gtr/#findComment-4682539
Share on other sites

yeah mate pretty much what ruby said....i am pretty sure that coolant hose would be running to the turbo (dont kill me if i am wrong here) if it still has a stock setup.....if thats the case then get it fixed, and do what ever ruby said so nothing to worry about the car motor wise anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276694-r33-gtr/#findComment-4682768
Share on other sites

yeah mate pretty much what ruby said....i am pretty sure that coolant hose would be running to the turbo (dont kill me if i am wrong here) if it still has a stock setup.....if thats the case then get it fixed, and do what ever ruby said so nothing to worry about the car motor wise anyway

yeah thanks guys... still pretty devo its happened. at least its not oil starvation. gonna pull the plenumn off tom.. order all hoses monday. then put it to the test. cheers again guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276694-r33-gtr/#findComment-4682782
Share on other sites

from memory as well to replace that hose mate you will most likely need to drop the gear box (well on a 25 you have to anyway).....goodluck getting it fixed....also if you can afford it get it done by a reputable workshop mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276694-r33-gtr/#findComment-4683345
Share on other sites

gtr's are completely different to the 25's krishy...your making it sound worse than what it is.

Replace the hose. Fill with coolant and bleed all air out of the cooling system and run with heater on while topping up coolant in radiator. Once at normal operating temp...put cap on, take for spin around the block and see how she runs. Dont thrash it. Load it up a little bit, then check coolant after it's cooled down. Dont rip cap off straight after you've returned from your drive as you may get burned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276694-r33-gtr/#findComment-4683379
Share on other sites

gtr's are completely different to the 25's krishy...your making it sound worse than what it is.

Replace the hose. Fill with coolant and bleed all air out of the cooling system and run with heater on while topping up coolant in radiator. Once at normal operating temp...put cap on, take for spin around the block and see how she runs. Dont thrash it. Load it up a little bit, then check coolant after it's cooled down. Dont rip cap off straight after you've returned from your drive as you may get burned.

lol answers my question, thanks ryan....i figured that they would be different :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276694-r33-gtr/#findComment-4683384
Share on other sites

guys, pulled the plenumn off today.. that was fun. found the problem.. rusted steel branch nipple where cooling pipe actually clamps onto. pipes are still all intact. still gonna replace all pipes under plenumn. counted ten or so under there its a maze. also does anyone know what the aluminium thing is that bolts to the underside of the plenumn?? cheers guys

thanks for the handy advice too!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276694-r33-gtr/#findComment-4683810
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...