Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone know where the outside air temp sensor is located? mine is reading -30 degrees so i need to fix it.

also i looked under drivers kick panel for the ecu diagnostic plug but could not find it, where is it?

Don't know about an external air temp sensor but to find the diagnostic plug pull out the coin tray to the right of the steering wheel and its to the left of the fuses.

i think the outside sensor is located in the front bumper infront of the radiator. probably smack bang in the middle

I wondered what that was on my S1...

For curiosity's sake I might have to run the diags on my climate control to see if it's working properly (assuming it's part of that system of tests)...

How do you find out what this sensor is reading? Is there a way to press buttons and make the current temp display on the aircon screen. The R32 did this, but I haven't found how to do it on the Stag.

How do you find out what this sensor is reading? Is there a way to press buttons and make the current temp display on the aircon screen. The R32 did this, but I haven't found how to do it on the Stag.

pretty much the same as the 32. here is a quick run down, i got this from the R34 manual but it seems to be a little different on the Stagea.

1- Check that the temperature adjustment knob is turn fully down or counter-clockwise, and that the A/C unit is turned off when you put the key in the "ON" position. Then switch the key off and rest any stop any turbo timers if they are running.

2- Start the car and within 10 seconds press and hold the "OFF" button on the A/C unit for 5 seconds. if you have done it right you will see every light and LCD bit light up on the A/C unit.

3- You use the temp knob to change between the diagnostic modes. you have to move it 3-4 notches to change it to the next mode.

Now the R34 manual says there are 5 Modes but i can only cycle through 4.

1st mode: is just the first one that shows up to show you that all the lights and LCD screen bits are working

2nd mode: is a sensor check. the number 2 will show at first the a second digit will show up

20 displayed is normal

21 is ambient sensor

22 is in vehicle sensor

24 is intake air sensor

25 is sun-load sensor

3rd mode: is actuator check and reset, if an error shows up you can reset it buy pushing the rear defogger button.

30 is normal operation

31-32.5 is air mix door

33-34.5 is mode door

35-36.5 is intake door

4th mode: is just a output device check, use the rear defogger button to cycle through the modes. this is basically what they are

41 full cold 35% fan to vent, recirculate mode

42 full cold 75% fan to blowers, recirculate mode

43 open 50% 61% fan to blower, 20% recirculate mode

44 open 50% 61% fan to the foot, ambient mode

45 full hot 61% fan to windscreen, ambient mode

46 full hot 100% fan to windscreen, ambient mode

5th mode: is supposed to the the sensor temp readings but i cant get into it. if i push the fan button when i'm in the 4th mode a 51 shows up on the screen then a temp reading of 0 deg. pushing any other button does nothing except for the temp knob which changes the 0 deg reading from 0 to 1 to 2 to 3 degree reading. i just left it at 0.

any one else have any luck with sensor temp readings?

pretty much the same as the 32. here is a quick run down, i got this from the R34 manual but it seems to be a little different on the Stagea.

1- Check that the temperature adjustment knob is turn fully down or counter-clockwise, and that the A/C unit is turned off when you put the key in the "ON" position. Then switch the key off and rest any stop any turbo timers if they are running.

2- Start the car and within 10 seconds press and hold the "OFF" button on the A/C unit for 5 seconds. if you have done it right you will see every light and LCD bit light up on the A/C unit.

3- You use the temp knob to change between the diagnostic modes. you have to move it 3-4 notches to change it to the next mode.

Now the R34 manual says there are 5 Modes but i can only cycle through 4.

1st mode: is just the first one that shows up to show you that all the lights and LCD screen bits are working

2nd mode: is a sensor check. the number 2 will show at first the a second digit will show up

20 displayed is normal

21 is ambient sensor

22 is in vehicle sensor

24 is intake air sensor

25 is sun-load sensor

3rd mode: is actuator check and reset, if an error shows up you can reset it buy pushing the rear defogger button.

30 is normal operation

31-32.5 is air mix door

33-34.5 is mode door

35-36.5 is intake door

4th mode: is just a output device check, use the rear defogger button to cycle through the modes. this is basically what they are

41 full cold 35% fan to vent, recirculate mode

42 full cold 75% fan to blowers, recirculate mode

43 open 50% 61% fan to blower, 20% recirculate mode

44 open 50% 61% fan to the foot, ambient mode

45 full hot 61% fan to windscreen, ambient mode

46 full hot 100% fan to windscreen, ambient mode

5th mode: is supposed to the the sensor temp readings but i cant get into it. if i push the fan button when i'm in the 4th mode a 51 shows up on the screen then a temp reading of 0 deg. pushing any other button does nothing except for the temp knob which changes the 0 deg reading from 0 to 1 to 2 to 3 degree reading. i just left it at 0.

any one else have any luck with sensor temp readings?

Awesome. Thanks heaps for your detailed reply. I'll have to check it out when I get home from work in a few weeks

I've just checked my S1, and I get the same behaviour in 'mode 5', but the temp reading is changeable from 0-3 in both clockwise & anti-clockwise rotation of the temperature controller. I'll have a look in my C34 workshop manuals to see if I can get some insight as to what's actually going on.

yeah i also got the sun load sensor. i performed the test at night time. i think you need to do the test during the day and parked in the sun so the sensor is actually exposed to the sun. the sun load sensor is the little round sensor on the dash up near the bottom of the windscreen on the passenger side. if i remember i'll do the test again tomorrow parked in the sun and see if i get the same error.

yeah i also got the sun load sensor. i performed the test at night time. i think you need to do the test during the day and parked in the sun so the sensor is actually exposed to the sun. the sun load sensor is the little round sensor on the dash up near the bottom of the windscreen on the passenger side. if i remember i'll do the test again tomorrow parked in the sun and see if i get the same error.

ahh :P good thinking...

i believe the S2 one is the same as the S1.

the temp sensors all have to do with how hard the a/c works, because its an auto climate control the unit needs to know a few things to do its job effectively. say its 35 deg outside and the car ambient is 40 then it needs to pull the a/c on full to get the temp down to what you want it to be, 20 deg for instance. but if its 15 deg outside, an for some reason the car ambient is 30 deg, it might just pull the a/c on a little bit and draw air from the outside to help cool it down.

same goes if your in the sun, the a/c will have to work harder to get the temp down when your in the sun than if it is night time. but this is mainly overridden when you set the fan speed/control to manual.

Edited by QWK32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...