Jump to content
SAU Community

O2 Sensor? Tune?

syfon

By syfon,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

SKYRYAN Grand Master

SKYRYAN

Posted
Posted

I had one before my PFC.

You can probably sell it for what you buy it for 2nd hand... but you're going to have to pay for a tune. Maybe $300.

Are you really going to save $300 in petrol by the time you fart around with doing all that and then selling it for a proper ECU replacement?

PS. Don't pay for install.... I'll do it, takes 10 minutes!

NISMOGTT Collaborator

NISMOGTT

Posted
Posted
Do you guys reckon it is worth getting an SAFC-II for my car and then getting it tuned properly? So that way i can adjust my fuel settings etc.

Also, I am running a catalytic converter, however once i pass pits the de-cat goes back in, I like my flames :)

why spend the money to save the money does not make sense to me... if you want it for a safe tune then yes but i dont think what you will spend on the SAFC and tune will pay off in fuel savings... seriously even if you do 50Km more a tank at 10Km/L then you saved 5 leters which is $7 tank a week is only $350 saved for the whole year you tune alone will cost you that.... I dont think you will be 50Km better so it is likely you will save less...

syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i'm looking at it this way, installing an SAFC2 allows me to change the fuel settings of the ecu right? Therefore i can get it tuned and have it running rich and with no cat i can be like skyryan and blow dirty big flames :P

SKYRYAN Grand Master

SKYRYAN

Posted
Posted
Well i'm looking at it this way, installing an SAFC2 allows me to change the fuel settings of the ecu right? Therefore i can get it tuned and have it running rich and with no cat i can be like skyryan and blow dirty big flames :P

Aww mine doesn't do that anymore, it was a very rich tune with retarded timing.. and I think a lot of exhaust/fuel vapours were collecting in the high flow cat.. and at the top of a gear change (6.5k in 3rd was good) it ignited a flame coming up to my back spoiler/window. I could see it in my rear view mirror!

Diff tune now and 3" de-cat :(

But the SAFC intercepts the signals going to the ECU from the AFM, and changes them.. so it lies to the ECU :P

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
Aww mine doesn't do that anymore, it was a very rich tune with retarded timing.. and I think a lot of exhaust/fuel vapours were collecting in the high flow cat.. and at the top of a gear change (6.5k in 3rd was good) it ignited a flame coming up to my back spoiler/window. I could see it in my rear view mirror!

Diff tune now and 3" de-cat :P

But the SAFC intercepts the signals going to the ECU from the AFM, and changes them.. so it lies to the ECU :P

It did it next to my open window on the freeway once.. I felt the heat on my face!

And yes, an SAFC bends the AFM signals enough that you shouldn't hit R&R.

syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm going to buy oil/plugs/filter tonight and server teh baby on the the weekend.

Should see a slight improvement in fuel economy....

OH, and i wonder. Once i have taken my coil packs out i'll be able to see if any oil has leaked into my spark plugs. The last time i changed them, no 3 & 4 spark plug were sitting in about an inch of oil.....hopefully i fixed that problem properly but i'll find out on the weekend lol

-Dukes- Proficient

-Dukes-

Posted
Posted

Go to an EFI specialist and they can help you out and explain what a new O2 sensor will do for you and will be able to explain fuel economy ect,

but before I did coil, plugs and O2 sensor i was getting worse fuel economy than you, now I'm getting 460kms per tank on 95fuel city driving. and 550kms per tank highway driving on 98fuel

Sounds like someone had a spill when they were filling the oil back up whistling.gif

lol, funnel get

syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL man i don't spill oil when i fill it, always use a funnel :D

Well i am pretty sure it was an oil leak, coz i removed the rocker cover's and checked the rubber gaskets/seals. They were fine but i still used some high temp silicone sealant as im pretty sure the rocker covers weren't sealed properly.

The spark plug was like in a pool of oil, there wasnt any oil where the plug connects to the coil pack though lol

syfon Veteran

syfon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well the rubber gaskets for the rocker cover were still very "rubbery-like", as in they felt fine and soft as if they were new....they didn't fell hard or cracked at all.

I'm just going to buy NGK copper plugs for the car and leave it at the standard gap as i have had no problem with them in the past :P

Anyone have a standard airbox i can borrow for pits?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...