Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had a quick search this morning but running out of time.

has anyone changed there clutch on a rs4s and if so what did u use, how much and is it any good etc?

can anyone also confirm the rs4s has the r33 gtr box and front and rear diffs. if so, should i just be looking for a r33 gtr clutch or is the 260rs clutch more heavy duty for pulling extra weight?

any info or links would be appreciated. i have to drive my car quite slow to avoid the clutch slipping in high gears.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278066-rs4s-clutch/
Share on other sites

i had a quick search this morning but running out of time.

has anyone changed there clutch on a rs4s and if so what did u use, how much and is it any good etc?

can anyone also confirm the rs4s has the r33 gtr box and front and rear diffs. if so, should i just be looking for a r33 gtr clutch or is the 260rs clutch more heavy duty for pulling extra weight?

any info or links would be appreciated. i have to drive my car quite slow to avoid the clutch slipping in high gears.

I put in a cushion button clutch but I cant remember if it was an xtreme or exedy. I am pretty sure it was a simple R33 GTR clutch. From memory, the heavy duty was a little cheaper but if you are thinking about more poer down the track an want to be able to launch off the line then go the cushion button.

I think the prices were about $1000 for the heavy duty and $1200 for the cushion button.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278066-rs4s-clutch/#findComment-4699850
Share on other sites

the cushion button on the stagea is annoying with the extra kerb weight and the pedal effort involved with the clutch we have (i'm sorry i don't know what brand it is). i would recommend a higher clamp organic based on our experiences on the street in this car.

my R33 has a Jim Berry mini monty (or whatever he calls it) with an organic plate and it is a pleasure to drive, light as stock and holding 280rwkw no worries. i can't wait to change the clutch on the stagea to one of similar spec.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278066-rs4s-clutch/#findComment-4699856
Share on other sites

my R33 has a Jim Berry mini monty (or whatever he calls it) with an organic plate and it is a pleasure to drive, light as stock and holding 280rwkw no worries. i can't wait to change the clutch on the stagea to one of similar spec.

I have the same Jim Berry clutch in mine. Was built for 300rwkw. It does not like 4-5000rpm launches. It slips and smells a bit, but does smoke all four :)

I think with flywheel machining and a few bits I was missing was around $850.

You do have to supply your old clutch for him to rebuild it.

Just remember they are "pull" type and cost more than push type.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278066-rs4s-clutch/#findComment-4700090
Share on other sites

wow this guy has got a reputation round here.

aight il give him a call today. so i take it it wont cost me an arm and a leg,to get my clutch to him and back. just sucks i need the car almost every day i might have to think about painting my datto and registering that so i can have the car off road for a bit.

ill be kidding myself thinking i can change it my self with out a hoist. i think there would be too much swearing and anger involved. anyone got a recomendation for fitment in adelaide? bare in mind if they have to pull it out and wait for the rebuild?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278066-rs4s-clutch/#findComment-4701998
Share on other sites

call jim and he will probably still be on the phone when your clutch returns. he does like to talk.

check with him whether you really need to supply the old clutch. i didn't for the R33.

i know what i'll be getting when my time comes then :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278066-rs4s-clutch/#findComment-4702088
Share on other sites

aight gave him a call and from what he says he can build the gtt clutch that comes in stagea r33 gtr box up to 3000 puonds of pressure (stock only 1600). :laugh:

so i think ill go with that, now its just the case of geting it fited i mite try it myself, if i can get a car of my olds for a week or so.

cheers for the link guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278066-rs4s-clutch/#findComment-4703766
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...