Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just got some rims, 18's. honestly ive seen competition 4x4's lower than this. so im obviusly gonna lower it. just wonderin if u guys reckon i should put a body kit on first, that way i know how far i can go down, would hate to lower it then not bein able to fit a body kit on.

i wanna go with a JUN style body kit.

any ideas would be appreciated. wat have u guys down with ur stock R33?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278503-what-to-do-next/
Share on other sites

What Michael said.

I started out with 30mm lowered king springs, already had to replace the shocks before that, Whiteline blade adjustable sway bars. You might as well replace your camber and castor bushings while you're at, if they're already worn then lowering will just make it even worse, though lowering a car will generally result in an increase of negative camber (wheels slant inwards towards the car, less contact with the ground = uneven wear) if the camber is out worse on one side of the car than the other, then wheel alignment issues would be worsened with lowering without correcting this (in my experience).

Brakes, R33 GTSt calipers are quite affordable now. I believe you can modify your brakes to suit R33 GTSt Calipers and larger discs without doing the 5 stud conversion (someone confirm?) I doubt you would want to do a 5 stud conversion after geting new wheels anyway. Failing that, depending on the condition of your brakes (discs,pads) a good set of discs and good pads combined with a Dot 4 brake fluid should see you stopping well. I didn't specify types of pads as everyone has their preference when it comes to noise/dust/heat resistance/cold bite. Generally high performance pads are less streetable.

After that, this is the part where you ultimately decide which direction your car is going to take in terms of performance. If staying N/A, then a high flow panel filter and a 2.5" catback exhaust system is generally your starting point. You can go with a pod filter, but unless you brace it to the chassis, put a box around it, and then run a cold air feed to get any significant gains, then a panel filter like a K&N is generally the way to go. After catback system comes extractors and hi-flow cat converter. Refer the current group buy for extractors. If you want affordable extractors from Partsco in NZ now is the time!

After all that you could get a piggy back ECU like a SAFC to clean up the AFR's but performance gains would be minimal for the dollars spent.

To take it even further, you start looking at port n polish the head to improve flow; aftermarket cams and adjustable cam gears, raising compression and then it starts getting $$$$.

My advice, plan ahead..well ahead! Modifying costs money either way you look at it, but if you plan it right you can save a lot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278503-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4705960
Share on other sites

I've taken alot of other peoples advice and upgraded the handling of my GTS25 with upgraded, tightened suspension, rear swaybar, better tyres and these mods where worth every cent. It has made me a better driver and it gives me more confidence to do some performance mods. So now im getting a catback exhaust this week or next and a pod filter (or panel filter, dont know which is better).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278503-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4705999
Share on other sites

going from your sig, you've already got done exhaust, intake, etc = good start. Chasing more kw from the NA ends up costing more $$ for less gain, unfortunately.

window tint (if not already tinted) is simple/cheap.

kit before lowering - if the kit sits lower than stock, then you're asking for trouble doing it the other way around :rofl:

at the moment I'm doing all lighting (replacing any sign of piss-yellow :P). again, cheap and simple. for me its something to do whilst thinking of what ELSE to do.

clear/smoked indicators? gauges? strut braces? alarm/immobiliser?

on top of that, regular maintenance. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278503-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4706116
Share on other sites

thanks guys.

yea i was gonna go kit first but just wanted to see wat other people had done. i had a look under the rear guard today and i can fit my fist with my thumb up cleanly under it, f**kin ridiculus.

ao the kit shouldnt be far away, mean while ill get some quotes from suspension places about lowerin and that, repco as well, my mate got his lowered suspension for his EF fairmount ghia from there for 750 bucks, includin camber kit, plus front whitline sway bar, see how they handle a r33.

oh the pod filter isnt on there any more, it got defected the day after i put it on, so just gonna run with a lukey or k&n panel filter. run the cold air tub up through the box

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278503-what-to-do-next/#findComment-4709076
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...