Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just need some hinter's or somethin, ive noticed till just recently in the last few days that the car has eaten almost half a tank and ive only gotten 150k's out of her rather then the usual 200 odd k's any idea's? and yes ive tried to drive as economic as i can but even when ive put my foot down, i still use to get good mileage out of the tank so im just woundering what it could be it is due for a service soon so im just hoping that its just that and only that. that the oil is dirty or something.

first check for any fuel leaks as above as thats cost free

how does the car idle? if its idling like shit you might have a leaking injector o-ring spitting too much fuel in (pretty unlikely if no one has played around with them)

if that fails, replace oxygen sensor

Edited by snozzle

Have you got any aftermarket stuff on your car??

If so, the stock ecu might be having a bit of a hissyfit and could rich & retarding the tune/engine. In which case, you'll be constantly running rich, even when driving midly and hence you'll be using lots of fuel. Alternatively, your O2 sensor might have gone bad and might be malfuctioning. Considering Skylines now are 10+ years old, id could be a factor worth considering. As mentioned above, best taking first for a service with a diagnostics and tune. That way, you've got all bases covered. :teehee:

Have you got any aftermarket stuff on your car??

If so, the stock ecu might be having a bit of a hissyfit and could rich & retarding the tune/engine. In which case, you'll be constantly running rich, even when driving midly and hence you'll be using lots of fuel. Alternatively, your O2 sensor might have gone bad and might be malfuctioning. Considering Skylines now are 10+ years old, id could be a factor worth considering. As mentioned above, best taking first for a service with a diagnostics and tune. That way, you've got all bases covered. :blush:

cheers guys for the advise, its pretty stock, only mod is cat back, and errr.... it idles just fine, but odly enough the fuel meter sat at half way till it hit 200k's anyways, which is normal for my car dunno about others... so i may just be immagining things ><" but yea ill still go for a full service an diagnostics an tune thingy... ^^ its just hit 106thou k's so its due for one of those major service's so guess ill be needing to do that ^^

Edited by Sneakyazn
I would suspect o2 sensor failure. (or just worn out)

NGK do a replacement for around 40 or 50 bucks.

Its a cheap fix.

Hey Brad, can that be bought at repco or something, I think I might change mine while I'm at it... I've been a bit sceptical about my own fuel usage in recent months.. $50 isn't alot of money to part with for some certainty...

Yeh, get an O2 sensor, they usually go. And will hamper your cruising fuel economy. I have a R32 with RB25 putting out 219rwhp with WOLF 3D tuned. I got 609 km out of a full tank (60L). Which was city driving, highway driving, hard boosting on a car cruise and some stick for fun.

Otherwise fuel leak is probable, but you will probably smell petrol if there is a leak.

Hey Brad, can that be bought at repco or something, I think I might change mine while I'm at it... I've been a bit sceptical about my own fuel usage in recent months.. $50 isn't alot of money to part with for some certainty...

Should have. If not, let me know and i can arrange it for you through my work.

new O2 sensor and u should maybe look at putting a injector cleaning additive in the fuel have heard of this helping. also change your spark plugs. also clean ABV and AMF.

a major service's should be the ticket "Sneakyazn"

ABV and AMF?

ABV = air bypass valve

AMF i meant AFM soz = air flow meter

ABV is cleaned with brake cleaner and cotton buds

AFM is cleaned with AFM cleaner $25 it can be found at any automotive shop

anyone know if high flowed injectors will have worse fuel economy than the sards/nismos injectors .have a set of sr20's high flowed to 600cc and chewing through the fuel. got carbon all over the rear bar and my tuner is trying to tell me its the injectors bad spry patttern, not the tune?

ABV = air bypass valve

AMF i meant AFM soz = air flow meter

ABV is cleaned with brake cleaner and cotton buds

AFM is cleaned with AFM cleaner $25 it can be found at any automotive shop

Oh by ABV you mean the Auxilary Air Control valve and the Idle Air Control valve..

pull the injectors out and sonic bath them, we do them at rotomotion, bring them in, we can tell u how good the spray pattern is

So you work at Rotomotion hey Harry.. I have a set of 1000cc injectors there to be flowtested :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...