Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey im assuming this is fairly normal granted its been pretty cold?? Drips a bit of water too. It all stops once its warm?

Just dont remember my old clubsport doing it quite as much...

If it stops when warm its nothing to worry about! Mine does the same when cold.:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278906-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4711510
Share on other sites

+1 to the mentioned above.....my car blows a heap of smoke when cold start and as soon as it warms up a bit then its all sweet......just try not to drive it when its really cold lol

nothing to worry about mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278906-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4711527
Share on other sites

don't warm up your car in the morning. bad for your engine. wears your plugs, allows unburnt fuel to condense and drip down past your rings into your oil diluting it.

more relative to what you're talking about, if you warm it up for like three to ten minutes it will take MUCH longer to get rid of the water vapour. Doesn't hurt your engine... it's what it's designed to do. Warming up for 5 minutes is an old wives tale. or husbands. either way, it's lame and misguided.

best way to warm up your car in the morning and get rid of the water vapour is to nanna it until it reaches just under operating temperature (a safe temp is about 70-75°, suitable op temp being between 80° and 95°C).

Try it out, the lot of you. If there's one thing you can trust, it's a dude on the internet. (That dude is Doctor Karl, bitches.)

Edited by Dorigecko
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278906-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4712933
Share on other sites

don't warm up your car in the morning. bad for your engine. wears your plugs, allows unburnt fuel to condense and drip down past your rings into your oil diluting it.

more relative to what you're talking about, if you warm it up for like three to ten minutes it will take MUCH longer to get rid of the water vapour. Doesn't hurt your engine... it's what it's designed to do. Warming up for 5 minutes is an old wives tale. or husbands. either way, it's lame and misguided.

best way to warm up your car in the morning and get rid of the water vapour is to nanna it until it reaches just under operating temperature (a safe temp is about 70-75°, suitable op temp being between 80° and 95°C).

Try it out, the lot of you. If there's one thing you can trust, it's a dude on the internet. (That dude is Doctor Karl, bitches.)

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278906-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4713035
Share on other sites

while it is a bit off topic, i am also against the letting your car sit there and idle to warm up. the main reasons being that it takes longer for a car to warm up when it's just sitting there idling, which means the car is running for longer at colder temps. the other reason being that it doesn't warm up the oil in the gearbox or diff.

another thing to take into consideration is that if you run your car for 10 mins every morning before you start driving, over a 1yr period, that is nearly 61 hours of running that your engine has done that hasn't been taken into account on your odometer, which means more than likely not taken into account on your servicing frequency. and not to mention the extra fuel you are using.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278906-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4713470
Share on other sites

30-60secs then I drive it. Stagea (being auto) I cruise along at 1500rpm while people behind me hurl abuse. Skyline I shifted at around 1000rpm (3L ftw :blink:) till it was out of cold start (>65deg).

Just don't load it up.

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278906-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4715420
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...