Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all... i have had my r33 for about a yr..loving it..except.. whent to new mechanic.. supposed to be a good mechanic..with lots of knowledge on my car...as i dont know anything about cars AT ALL!!!! told him i wanted to make it a bit better, he recommended pod filter, computer chip, intercooler and gettn better exhuast system...when i first got the car...it was supposed to be completely stock..but since i have found out it had a blitz bov...so i got mechanic to turn it up (if thats what you call it, sorry complete car noob)an i got i got a r33 blitz pod filter!?... but after that i just kept stalling, slight revs..eg when at lits the idle/revs..jumping a bit ..that was 5weeks ago...ive been a way..so last week asked him fix.. as far as i could tell he turned idle up, kept doing it...so TODAY.....iv takn out there..now it feels more powerful,but idle stills up there..almost idling at 1thousand revs...and he said that they had blocked/bov...put sumthing over it.. the turbo gauge inside the car seem so be right up there now as for what ever he has done...it seems to have power, an over 3.5thousand revs..the bloody car shakes.. ive tried to explain everthing as best i can...but if anyone has anything i could say bk to my mechanic plz let me know, or if i havent explained it well enough..i will try again... cheers ps..this is my r33 anyway...hey!! i like it..

post-64729-1247472269_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278976-hi-all-and-help/
Share on other sites

One thing that's confusing is where you say you have a blitz bov (blow off valve) and you turn it up? Do you mean you lessened the tension on the spring so it let air out easily? Or do you mean you have a boost controller and turned that up?

If you have the blow off valve, the problem is that. It's venting air to the atmosphere that the ECU thinks is going into the engine, and it is adding fuel to compensate... but since that air ISN'T in the engine, there is too much fuel, and it is flooding the engine, causing you to stall...

The best way to fix it is to go back to a recirculating bov as it was when it was standard, but then you lose the noise that comes with a bov.

Hope this helped a bit :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278976-hi-all-and-help/#findComment-4712177
Share on other sites

yes it must have been lessening the tension...as it was that hssssh noise i was after, sorry im tryn to explain best as i can...but when i went to him today, all i said was put the blow off valve back to the way it was...but as i said he said, basically the BOV is stuffed, somthing like that an that he had blocked it, i assume so the air cant get out, no hsssss, hey all i want was it to stop stalling...thanx you for your advice though,,but its hard...as i say to my machanic...i know nothing about cars...but i know how my car feels and drives..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278976-hi-all-and-help/#findComment-4712199
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...