Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all..

My 32 has a similar setup to many many other 32's in that i've got a series 1 r33 rb25 turbo on my rb20. I'm running 14psi and i'm pretty happy with the power it's producing, however it seems quite laggy for such a small upgrade in turbo.

I hit full boost around 4500rpm which is still usable, but i have seen dyno sheets from other cars (Bubba's springs to mind) with the same setup but reaching full boost closer to 3500rpm.

The only difference i can see is that i'm running a manual boost controller as opposed to an EBC.. could this delay in full boost be caused by wastegate creep which would be eliminated by an EBC or is it something else?

* i should clarify what i define as "wastegate creep" since i have heard other people define it differently: as the wastegate is a mechanical device, it begins to open slightly as the car comes onto boost. eg: rb20 actuator is 10psi for fully open, however when you're at 5psi the wastegate would be slightly open due to the pressure.. not enough to open fully but a little.

EBC's try to eliminate this by not letting any pressure reach the actuator till the boost is close to the desired target, thus keeping the wastegate fully closed for as long as possible

the manual boost controller i'm using is one of these: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/go...ntr-t73375.html

other mods i have are:

apexi pod filter

silicone induction pipe

greddy fmic

3" full zorst

nistune ECU

etc etc

So yeah.. just wondering if it's worth me picking up an EBC or not... will i see the boost come on any earlier?

th_24thOctBoost.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279128-rb25-turbo-on-rb20det/
Share on other sites

* i should clarify what i define as "wastegate creep" since i have heard other people define it differently: as the wastegate is a mechanical device, it begins to open slightly as the car comes onto boost. eg: rb20 actuator is 10psi for fully open, however when you're at 5psi the wastegate would be slightly open due to the pressure.. not enough to open fully but a little.

They're called "wastegate actuators". You can set the trim for the actuators, so you can have the car come on boost gradually or all of a sudden. EBC might be a good idea because you can set the trim on these to open the wastegate when you want it to, and usually don't open the gate until full pressure has been reached.

Edited by stormtrooper

yeah the actuator controls the wastegate.. but the actuator on the rb20 is completely mechanical (no solenoid or anything) so i can't set the trim since i don't have an EBC (yet)

manual controllers try and reduce this creep by using a restriction on the hose to the actuator.. it does work in theory, but i'm wondering how effectively (if at all) my particular boost controller reduces this creep.

I'm mainly looking for other people running rb25 turbos on their rb20 to see at what rpm they reach full boost using which boost controller.

thanks!

I was running a profecBII when I had my Rb20 w/25 turbo.. they have a fature that holds the gate shut until the boost level you choose, this helps bring boost on much faster.

I was also running a quality split dump pipe, 3" front pipe and 2.75" catback.

i'm just using a just-jap 3" dump / front pipe.. not great, but should still be good enough for my low-end horsepower ambitions..

I'm actually fitting an extractor style manifold soon as my current one is leaking and it was about the same price to buy a new one than to get this one fixed... maybe that will help slightly, but probably not enough.

I've also heard there are dodgey things you can do to reduce wastegate creep like using a long hose from the intake to the actuator.. but i don't think i'll be doing that

Have you tried another actuator? I know the ebc will help bring on boost faster but there's still 1000rpm difference between when mine came on and what yours is doing.. that seems like a huge difference..

P.S. love the avatar dude, we have wooden floorboards and 5 cats.. mucho amusement :blink:

Have you tried another actuator? I know the ebc will help bring on boost faster but there's still 1000rpm difference between when mine came on and what yours is doing.. that seems like a huge difference..

P.S. love the avatar dude, we have wooden floorboards and 5 cats.. mucho amusement :blink:

no i haven't.. that's probably a good idea.

I have tried 2 different turbos and 2 different dump pipes in my tuning adventures, but both turbos and both dump pipes gave identical results.

One thing i was considering trying was next time i get it on the dyno, disconnecting the actuator all together and giving it a run (obviously stopping as soon as the boost gets to 15psi) and seeing when it comes on boost completely un-wastegated .. should be a good indication of how much better it *could* be

i had this problem when i first put an r34 turbo on my rb20, but i found out that it was due to the actuator, the wastgate actuator had a sort of power band, would mid boost then full boost, i was full boosting around 4500, all i did was swap over my rb20 actuator over and then that cut the rpm by about 1k

worrth a shot, altho be warned it may change ur boost setting, mine went up to standard boost 13psi

no i haven't.. that's probably a good idea.

I have tried 2 different turbos and 2 different dump pipes in my tuning adventures, but both turbos and both dump pipes gave identical results.

One thing i was considering trying was next time i get it on the dyno, disconnecting the actuator all together and giving it a run (obviously stopping as soon as the boost gets to 15psi) and seeing when it comes on boost completely un-wastegated .. should be a good indication of how much better it *could* be

I was going to suggest that and try it on the road.

just run it and watch the guage, but its not too safe :P

im thinking actuator is the culprit

ive got a s2 r33 turbo on my 32 (rb20)

and i also have the boost tee and very similar mods to yours, minus nistune and plus splitfires,

my boost guage is unpluged atm (dont ask) so ill get that in this weekend and give it a smash :mellow:

however im pretty sure it comes on before 4500 bro

ill keep ya posted

Are you going off just your dyno graph or out on the street? I was looking at your previous dyno sheets and it looks like it ramps up quicker when you had lower power. Id say it's just a slower ramp rate on the dyno.

hey mate just came back form a chill wiht some of the sau boys, and i took my car for a little burn wen on the freeway,

and anyway, althought my guage isnt plugged in atm - i rkn i hit full boost (12psi) at around 3,200-3,400

:banana:

Had a bit of test on the weekend and mine is making 10 pound by 4k and creeps to 12 pound a few hundred RPM afterward maybe 4.2k or thereabouts.

I'm using one of those GFB bleed valves. Sounds like i may have to find a stock RB20 actuator and swap it over?

i put my old S2 rb25 turbo on my mates r32 not long ago. hits full boost (15psi) at 3200rpm in 4th starting at 2000rpm and flooring it. i would say take ur wastegate actuator off and test it with a compressor with a valve on it and gradually increase the pressure untill it opens the actuator. i think the spring inside urs if screwed and opening way too easily causing ur boost to come on slow. or ur wastegate isnt properly closed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...