Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i wish it was more exciting than the title header... but it's not..

I can't seem to get rid of a squeal that seems to be coming from the passenger front of the engine bay. Only happens high in the rev range 4k++ and if I absolutely mash the accelerator.

I thought it was the alternator belt and have since tightened it, this week changed to a new one.

The clutch was slipping and I have got a new one this week.

Any ideas what it can be?

Thanks again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279574-theres-a-banshee-in-my-bonnet/
Share on other sites

Cracked/broken exhaust studs or leaking exhaust gasket would be my bet- mine does the same & thats what I found after a bit of investigation

Man SAU Rocks!

Talk about specialised knowledge. I will get it checked out.

in the meantime, what could this mean to the performance?

thanks again.

Try your airconditioner pump tensioner pulley (lowest positioned idler pulley). Mine squeels around 4k and I believe it to be a noisy bearing. Disconnect the the air con pump belt and see if it still squeels, mine stopped when I disconnected the belt. Bet thats what your squeel is!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...