Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh depends what size tyre u use, if u used the same size tyre on the 8" as u did on the 7", bit of strectch but ull gain a tiny bit more clearance from the chassis rail at full lock (due to the lower offset). u go a lower profile and ull gain quite a bit more clearance once again. i know it may not make sense, but uve gotta remember on the inside, the different components that u can foul on, foul in different ways.

but yeh ideally for a 8" u want at least a +25 or so offset to get some inner clearance.

My semi's arrive tomorrow so for DECA it'll be 235/45's on 7" wide rim and then towards the end of the month when the dude sells me those rims it'll be those tyres on an 8" rim.

Edited by ActionDan

yeh doesnt surprise me that's fouling quite hard on full lock. if ur planning on doing drift, ull need to go something like a +25 offset to get that away from the rails on full lock, the problem only gets worse if u put lock spacers in to give you more lock. id say at that point ur probably looking at needing a +20 or so offset. that will be pretty snug up against the guard, but you should be fine with -4 camber as that will tuck it in a lot.

it's not about choosing to go skinnier, it's about having two sets of rims, one set is 8" so they will be my circuit rims as they are more suited to the 235 rubber and another set are 7" so they will be my skid rims because I don't take drift seriously and don't mind if I bang them up plus they will suit the thinner cheapr rubber I have on hand that I don't mind burning up.

  • 3 weeks later...

Niss: As per my PM on NS

"I've been reading a few offset/clearance threads and you and I seem to be on the same page, that is tyres that fit the rim PROPERLY.

I've got some 235/45/R17 semi's and I'm looking for suitable rims to go with them. At the moment they are ballooned onto my 17x7 ET40 rims and they look bad and don't handle well. also, they JUST clear the springs up front . (-2.5 camber)

I'm thinking 17x8 rims all round (is this wide enough) or if I go 9's all round will I have clearance issues? I'm not sure what offset to get either.

To throw another spanner in it, I've got S15 calipers up front and I'm still running 4 stud.

Thoughts? "

Those enkies I went to get in melb turned out to be 7J up front so I drove home (3hrs) empty handed.

Is an 8 or 9J going to be better and what sort of offset should I be looking for to ensure the inner clearances are OK.

Finding wheels has been an nightmare...

Edited by ActionDan

hey mate, 8" will be wide enough, but u can go up to 9" if you think you might want to go wider in the future, 9" will hold a 255 easily, or u simply prefer a more direct feel (not such an issue with semi slicks due to their stiff sidewalls anyway).

as far as clearance issues, the mac strut on the S13's is known for shitty inner clearance when you go aftermarket coilovers, how much depends on each coilover, but generally the safe point seems to be around 9" +20 where it should clear most coilovers. unfortunately this will push out pretty far in ur guards, especially if u run a 255 down the track. if you want more carefree fitment, u could get away with something like a 8" +30.

u can then go a 9" +30 on the rear and run a 235 there as well if u want, generally when the car is running close to stock power, i find a neutral tyre setup works well on these cars as they do have a bit of understeer from factory, and not heaps of power to put down. but depends on the suspension setup etc, and how much power it's letting u put down.

hey mate, 8" will be wide enough, but u can go up to 9" if you think you might want to go wider in the future, 9" will hold a 255 easily, or u simply prefer a more direct feel (not such an issue with semi slicks due to their stiff sidewalls anyway).

as far as clearance issues, the mac strut on the S13's is known for shitty inner clearance when you go aftermarket coilovers, how much depends on each coilover, but generally the safe point seems to be around 9" +20 where it should clear most coilovers. unfortunately this will push out pretty far in ur guards, especially if u run a 255 down the track. if you want more carefree fitment, u could get away with something like a 8" +30.

u can then go a 9" +30 on the rear and run a 235 there as well if u want, generally when the car is running close to stock power, i find a neutral tyre setup works well on these cars as they do have a bit of understeer from factory, and not heaps of power to put down. but depends on the suspension setup etc, and how much power it's letting u put down.

Ahh OK, Cheers for that.

So if i can find a set of rims 8" all round and +30 at the highest i should be right, or I could also go 9" and +30 on the back if I find a set that has staggered rim widths.

The car maks SFA power, wouldn't be more than 130rwkw's at the most at present. Will get more down the track.

Thos Drift Teks seem popular but come in either 8" +34 or 9" + 35 which will give me less clearance than I have now. I'll have to check ow far out the rim is as the tyre is just clearing at my camber settings but I'm not sure where the rim is sitting right now.

Thos Drift Teks seem popular but come in either 8" +34 or 9" + 35 which will give me less clearance than I have now. I'll have to check ow far out the rim is as the tyre is just clearing at my camber settings but I'm not sure where the rim is sitting right now.

yeh i cant remember if u mentioned what suss u were running, but check the clearance u have now, u might be able to get away with more.

and try to stay away from driftteks, they are expensive cheap junk lol when u look at what u can get 2nd hand, and even new for around the same $$ it seems crazy to buy them.

I've got BC brand BR coilovers, cheap shit ones but they do the job OK.

I'm having trouble finding almost anything suitablle. I'll get under the car and check out some clearances tonight. Even an 8" wide rim with +30 is going to eat up another 3mm inner clearance..

yeh 3mm isnt heaps though, and the main thing when it comes to scrubbing on lock is the offset is down. as mentioned chassis scrubbing on lock is to do with tyre size and wheel offset, wheel width plays a insignificant role, as hard as it is to understand.

what about something like this?

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...at=0&page=1

wonder if they come in 4 stud?

There's a set of drift teks going right now, tempting, surely they can't be that weak if every has'em on drift cars?

What else could i get in that price range quickly?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...