Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all i have only had my gtr for a month or so im trying to get it sorted befor i goto powercruise.

My problem is when im driving along on the high way sitting at around 100ks from time to time ill get a miss for no reason.Will be humming along perfectly then a miss.Does not happen all the time it just happens at random.

even when crusing around town ill be going threw the gears up to about 2 to 3k revs and i get a slight miss.

What could it be.

I have an idea but id rather ask the pros on here befor i put up what i think so i don t push the topic in the wrong direction.

Mods are

power fc

apexi power intake kit

PE denzo 700 injectors

hks 2530s turbos.

irtop 8s plugs new gaped

Edited by Gtir-keiron

if it is very irregular its your PFC, nothing to worry about. They often have an infrequent miss at light throttle.

if it's a concern for you change it for a vipec with the parachute option

Sounds like it could be the "microstutter" problem to me. Inherent with certain revisions of the PowerFC. Nothing to worry about if it is, have the same issues with my PFC, more of an annoyance than anything

My GTS4 with the rb26 in it has got a miss that im trying to nut out at the moment too. Just a intermitent miss were there car would drop a cyl and stay like that for a period of driving for about 2-3 mins and then it would come back to life firing on all cyl. WEIRD!!! ;)

Ive just recently changed my coil packs to yellow jackets so it aint that and ive check wiring harness for coil packs, all good and also the sparkies. The one thing i have done different so far is changing the ignitor to another one as a test. Since doing this last night and driving the car today, everything is sweeeeet. Well so far. ;)

I will keep ya informed on how it goes over the weekend as i keep driving it. It was most of the time when you drove the car it would miss so hopefully changing the ignitor is the answer.

It may be the answer for you. Will keep ya posted! :)

Hi,

The miss could be a number of things.

First is your plugs.

Second is the Coil packs.

Third is the coil loom..ie plugs and wire cables

fourth could be your ignitor not getting earth.

Fifth could the PFC as everyone has stated.

Sixth could be your tune.

Seventh could be what I think I have...air bubbles in coolant.

Tried bleeding a few times but never gets hot enough.

Although not a miss..it sometimes feels like one.

Eight could be your pedal...you could hit a slight hump causing your pedal to let go and

engage again..this happened more to me until I changed my spring rates.

or Ninth thing could be that one of your injectors is rooted..or maybe a few.

Don't think I left anything out...oh..don't think about it to much.....

Its not the easiest thing to live with a gtr...lol.

Hi,

The miss could be a number of things.

First is your plugs.

Second is the Coil packs.

Third is the coil loom..ie plugs and wire cables

fourth could be your ignitor not getting earth.

Fifth could the PFC as everyone has stated.

Sixth could be your tune.

Seventh could be what I think I have...air bubbles in coolant.

Tried bleeding a few times but never gets hot enough.

Although not a miss..it sometimes feels like one.

Eight could be your pedal...you could hit a slight hump causing your pedal to let go and

engage again..this happened more to me until I changed my spring rates.

or Ninth thing could be that one of your injectors is rooted..or maybe a few.

Don't think I left anything out...oh..don't think about it to much.....

Its not the easiest thing to live with a gtr...lol.

haha the pedal being tapped while going over a bump has happened to me.. got me worried for a sec until i figured it out lol

Well ive driven the car around all weekend and its all good now. Changing the ignitor was the answer to fixing my problem.

Hope you can source what the problem is with your car. Its just a matter of changing things, testing things and eliminating each thing as the cause of the problem as you go along.

I hope you can crack it! :devil:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...