Jump to content
SAU Community

Pod And Panel Filter

sydking

By sydking,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

why would you have both?? If you're talking about a pod filter followed by a panel boxed filter.. then there's no point except for induction sound. Having both would just add restriction to your airflow and make performance worse. Unless you're driving through a dust storm every day of the week I fail to see any benefit or reason. It's either one or the other mate.

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
this is my setup on my 34

OK, I see a heat shielded pod. Where's the panel filter in that pic?

but i havent seen anyone talking about having both? can it be done?

I know its not "legal' but im talking performace wise, not legality.

It can be done, but from a performance perspective its pointless. You're just adding needless complexity and you won't see any more airflow.

If you run the pod and panel in series, it just adds an intake restriction because the engine has to suck air through 2 filters. A single filter will provide enough filtration so the resistance decreases performance but doesn't add any safety.

If you run them in parallel (so you use a Y pipe to join the 2 together) then your total airflow is still restricted by the size of the intake pipe downwind of the Y pipe. You could just have 1 pipe of that diameter and see the same cross sectional flow. At the same time, 2 different airstreams merging creates turbulence, which is also bad for airflow.

R33_Dude Rising Star

R33_Dude

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ah the good 'ole panel vs pod with a twist.

Basically in all the tests that have been done by various car magazines (both online and paper) the consensus is to get a high flowing non-oiled panel filter. Plus thats my opinion too. Feel free to flame away - honestly I don't care if you have a pod but for the love of god it better be shielded.

Autospeed has some nice articles about induction here:

Part 1: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1361/article.html

Part 2: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1370/article.html

Part 3: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1379/article.html

Part 4: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1829/article.html

Good stuff in there.

As to why not pod and panel? The question is why would you? More restrictive. No gains. More convoluted piping. Probably not that much noise (if your into that kind of thing). Costly (relatively).

Essentially a lot of work for no real gain. The question is why would you?

Edit: added article

Edited by R33_Dude
r32na Community Regular

r32na

Posted
Posted (edited)

my car has a panel filter and a pod filter set up, but there is pannel filter mouth and the pod aswell which doesnt go through the filter lol i didnt do this it was like that when i got it, pretty weird, the pod sits down in the front bar and piping joins up behind the panel filter, which has a mouth sitting behind the headlight.

I am getting rid of the filter soon and having the pod sitting by itself down within the front bar tho,

Edited by r32na
MissR34 Grand Master

MissR34

Posted
Posted
do u mean something like this?

this is my setup on my 34

25072009415-1.jpg

That a Good Set-Up Aswell, This Is What Iv Fitted To My 33Gtr-Heaps Better Then A Panel Filter!

post-64108-1248924337_thumb.jpg

i would like to cover my pod up just for a more tidy look

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • GTSBoy
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • WR33KD
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By WR33KD · Posted

      I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Duncan
      Rusty roof repair

      By Duncan · Posted

      Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • Duncan
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Duncan · Posted

      This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
×
×
  • Create New...