Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item = Exedy Hyper Metal Single Plate Clutch

Location = Melbourne

Condition = Great condition (used for 3months)

Type = Pull Type (Will fit R33-R34 GTRs + R34 GTTs and Late Model R32 GTRs

Capacity = 250 - 370rwkw

Price = 1100 ONO

Hey guys!

Recently pulled off my Exedy Hyper Metal Single Plate Clutch off my r34 gtt due to updrading to a Twin Plate. this has defiently been a fantastic clutch. the perfect amount of play and engangement! very great feeling for the street and especially for those of you who like hard launches.

heres some info from nengun.

The EXEDY HYPER SINGLE CLUTCH is a new generation clutch set for light to moderately tuned vehicles up to 400 HP. The EXEDY Hyper Single Clutch is ideal for limited street driving and road circuit cars. The EXEDY Hyper Single Clutch has high torque capacity and a special lightweight design to reduce the clutch disc inertia.

LIGHT WEIGHT & LOW INERTIA DESIGN

- High friction coefficient, low wear, and a special heat resistant material (T5001) has been developed enabling clutch size to be reduced and have increased durability.

- Improved durability by strong small damper disc, especially re-designed for hyper single clutch.

- Disc inertia level is less than OEM clutch for improved shift response for fast gear changes, especially in racing applications.

DIAPHRAM SPRING TECHNOLOGY FOR LONG LIFE & HIGH EFFICIENCY

- Leading technology of clutch diaphragm spring and original design superior material using a special heat treatment process, which will result in a high durability level, and prevent heat deflection, loss of clamp load, and heavy pedal effort.

- Long life and improved clutch operation due to original design for hyper single clutch.

STRAP DRIVE TYPE PRESSURE PLATE FUNCTION

- Improved clutch disengagement. (Pressure plate is forcibly separated from facing surface by strap plate)

- Prevent no-disengagement problem caused by the heat deformation of pressure plate.

- Prevent the peculiar rattle noise of lug drive type clutch.

for those of you who are interested you can PM me here or please email me at "[email protected]"

alternatively my number is 0421691338.

THANKS!!!

35860fullhypersingle223.th.jpg

Edited by Jap_Muscle
  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...