Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item = Exedy Hyper Metal Single Plate Clutch

Location = Melbourne

Condition = Great condition (used for 3months)

Type = Pull Type (Will fit R33-R34 GTRs + R34 GTTs and Late Model R32 GTRs

Capacity = 250 - 370rwkw

Price = 1100 ONO

Hey guys!

Recently pulled off my Exedy Hyper Metal Single Plate Clutch off my r34 gtt due to updrading to a Twin Plate. this has defiently been a fantastic clutch. the perfect amount of play and engangement! very great feeling for the street and especially for those of you who like hard launches.

heres some info from nengun.

The EXEDY HYPER SINGLE CLUTCH is a new generation clutch set for light to moderately tuned vehicles up to 400 HP. The EXEDY Hyper Single Clutch is ideal for limited street driving and road circuit cars. The EXEDY Hyper Single Clutch has high torque capacity and a special lightweight design to reduce the clutch disc inertia.

LIGHT WEIGHT & LOW INERTIA DESIGN

- High friction coefficient, low wear, and a special heat resistant material (T5001) has been developed enabling clutch size to be reduced and have increased durability.

- Improved durability by strong small damper disc, especially re-designed for hyper single clutch.

- Disc inertia level is less than OEM clutch for improved shift response for fast gear changes, especially in racing applications.

DIAPHRAM SPRING TECHNOLOGY FOR LONG LIFE & HIGH EFFICIENCY

- Leading technology of clutch diaphragm spring and original design superior material using a special heat treatment process, which will result in a high durability level, and prevent heat deflection, loss of clamp load, and heavy pedal effort.

- Long life and improved clutch operation due to original design for hyper single clutch.

STRAP DRIVE TYPE PRESSURE PLATE FUNCTION

- Improved clutch disengagement. (Pressure plate is forcibly separated from facing surface by strap plate)

- Prevent no-disengagement problem caused by the heat deformation of pressure plate.

- Prevent the peculiar rattle noise of lug drive type clutch.

for those of you who are interested you can PM me here or please email me at "[email protected]"

alternatively my number is 0421691338.

THANKS!!!

35860fullhypersingle223.th.jpg

Edited by Jap_Muscle
  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...