Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just jap have jjr's for like $400 with warranty lots off people have them and i havent seen any complaints vs 700 for splitfires.

I also saw a while ago Yellow jackets which are apparently good aswell and around $400 too i think. there was a group buy through performance wise too.

but im still on stick r33 s2 coils so i couldnt reccomend any but when my time comes ill probably end up with the ones from just jap unless the exhange rate is real good.

cheers rich

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281163-coilpack-choice/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Just a quick question about upgrade coilpack choice. I had some aftermarket ones as the stock ones were no good, not naming brands but they have turned out pretty bad and the company making them have offered a full refund or credit towards splitfires.

The engine is an RB25DET S2 from an R33. The only issue with the splitfires is the cost.. I shoudn't complain I got what I paid for last time but I was wondering do any other brands make a good coilpack for this engine at a cheaper cost e.g bosch and the like. Do they fit right up like the splitfires do?

If splitfire is the way to go, where is the cheapest place to get them from? My car isnt going anywhere until this issue is fixed.

Thanks for ur help guys.

Liam

Edited by FordyR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281163-coilpack-choice/#findComment-4740154
Share on other sites

Just Jap r the ones I actually had in and didn't want to name. They have offered a full refund or $399 credit towards splitfires. They also said the S2 R33 coils r off the market due to too many issues and returns.

I hope this doesn't give Just Jap a bad name, it is just one product that hasn't turned out. I think it's good that they tried to make a product that is almost half the price of the "leading" brand so to speak. It seems to me from what I hear that it's only S2 RB25DET coilpacks that have been taken off the market.

I have heard very little of the Yellow Jackets so probably not keen on spending my money there. Looks like I'm getting splitfires if they are going to be the best solution.

Thanks

Liam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281163-coilpack-choice/#findComment-4741403
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

There's an Australia company thats supposed 2 be really good 2 of the blokes @ work wit skylines have used them their called superspark.com.au they seem to know their stuff. I'm going to get some coil packs from them i just need the money first ha ha ha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281163-coilpack-choice/#findComment-4779638
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Go the Yellow Jackets. They are excellent. Ive had a set in my GTST for almost 1 year now and they have been faultless.

They come with 12 month warranty. Delivery was very swift from Performance wise and they are an excellent price for under $400

Ive heard lots of bad stories about the red JJR an superspark type so Id steer clear of them.

Heres a thread on SAU where people are comparing them - CLICK HERE

Seems to me that the Yellow Jackets are the winners here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281163-coilpack-choice/#findComment-4820432
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...