Jump to content
SAU Community

Aftermarket Rods - Options

RNS11Z

By RNS11Z,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

N I B Grand Master

N I B

Posted
Posted
Steve, you mention that some RB25s have weaker rods, and a few other things - is there any way to tell which engine is which without pulling the engine down?

Cheers

The only real way is to pull it down but some RBs respond very well to boost upgrades-Exhausts etc and some don't, the ones that don't tend to be the dog motor as the head flows less.

87calais Apprentice

87calais

Posted
Posted

I went and saw the guys at ARGO about rods for my engine (RB30 with 26 head), and he quoted me $2100 for the set and said they were good for at least 200hp per cylinder. He was also telling me about SR20 rods and others they do so i would assume they do RB25 and 26 rods for a similar price to the RB30 rods. He brought some out to show me and they are an extreemly well crafted rod.

Cheers

N I B Grand Master

N I B

Posted
Posted
I went and saw the guys at ARGO about rods for my engine (RB30 with 26 head), and he quoted me $2100 for the set and said they were good for at least 200hp per cylinder. He was also telling me about SR20 rods and others they do so i would assume they do RB25 and 26 rods for a similar price to the RB30 rods. He brought some out to show me and they are an extreemly well crafted rod.

Cheers

Argo rods are outstanding and i have never had one fail but their not the only option any more but as they are Oz made spend your cash on local parts and help our guys grow, it will help Australias place in the performance market grow.
RNS11Z Experienced

RNS11Z

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got a quote of $2200 for Argo rods, $1800 for the rods built by sam (shilak i think it is) but apparently his rods are not much stronger then standards. Eagle rods should be released in a month. I know a guy who ordered a set for his car which should arrive in 4 weeks. Supposed to be one of the first people getting it.

  • 4 weeks later...
GTR STI Community Regular

GTR STI

Posted
Posted

You get what you pay for.

I have a 2 sets of RB26 rods for sale.

"CARRILLO" CNC machined from 4340 chome moly forgings. (a lightweight rod)

At the factory they are heat treated, then magnaflux inspected and hardness checked, then machined to final size. Each set of rods is balanced and then shot peened to achieve the ultimate in strength and fatique properties. The rod bolts are the multiphase SPS-CARR units. These rod bolts have a design tensile strength of 285,000 PSI and are designed to be a non-replacement type fastener. These are low kilometre rods with a replacement value of $3600 for sale at $1900. (available now)

RB26 std. rods from a 16000km R33 GTR v-spec. $600. (available in feb.)

Phillip

[email protected]

0409573124

DESCR8 Proficient

DESCR8

Posted
Posted

Fellas please remember the build, clearances and balancing of a bottom end is what makes or breaks an engine. Im using Carrillos but my engine builder was sent a set of Eagle rods for an RB26 to evaluate and if i was to build again i would be using them since they are identical in appreance, quality and also metalurgy. A good idea if you want to rev the titts off the thing is to "Over Balance" the bottom end.

Jordan

GTR STI Community Regular

GTR STI

Posted
Posted

Carrillo are arguably the best rods available.

Alloy rods tend to stretch.

These are H-Beam, not I- Beam and are Forged chrome moly with the best rod bolts you can buy...you can't get much stronger.

If your interested....pick a Brisbane Engineering firm to check them out for you, prior to buying??

I'm not into selling crap to people...unlike some others that have on this Forums.

regards Phillip

DoughBoy Veteran

DoughBoy

Posted
Posted
I'm not into selling crap to people...unlike some others that have on this Forums.

Hey, ok so maybe that girl I sold you from Russia was a little over 60, and not 16 like I said. Ok I admit I had some beer goggles on at the time.....

:D

GTR STI Community Regular

GTR STI

Posted
Posted

Doughboy....you've alway given me what I paid for and then some....just like the laugh I've got now.

I'm happy with the 60 year old Russian woman...the foods good, the house is clean and she never bitches about anything....the girl who was 16, would never have lasted and only you would know the trouble she can cause....

I hope all of the Christmas gifts arrived from Japan and barring the large item, you've mentioned, Santa filled your order...talk to you later.

RNSIIZ (Harun) you live in Brisbane, as I do.....Low K's is erelevant, when if your serious, you can arrange to view and have them checked out by the Engineering Firm of your choice.....

see ya

Phillip

GTR STI Community Regular

GTR STI

Posted
Posted

Doughboy answered the low km question for me..refer above.

The rods are a matching set of six in excellent condition and will stand up to any examination, by anyone.

It would be money well spent for peace of mind.

your choice?

Happy New Year to all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...