Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

they are both the same thing. just one valve doing the job of two. its proper name as listed in the workshop manual is IACV-AAC Valve. its doing the job of the idle air control and the auxiliary/accessory air control.

here is a page from the R34 workshop manual that shows some troubleshooting for different engine faults. issues with cold starting is listed. i know S1 isnt the same as R34 but its still basically the same thing.

post-34711-1249296512_thumb.jpg

Beacuse your car idles fine once its started it probably not the AAC valve, but becuse it's a quick job, 30 min, it would be worth doing anyway. It just unbolts off the back of the plenum, then when its out carefully pull the valve apart remembering how it goes back together, and give it all a good clean with some degreaser or carby clean. There is a good tutorial in the DYI section that would be worth having a look at before attempting.

Edited by QWK32
well hugh care to share with us? Where did u get ur manual?

Ben what are you doing on thursday?

I'm keen to clean both those valves on thursday... Anyone done them? How hard is it?

Its on disc, I think I got it from Tangles. I may be able to do a copy, will let you know later.

you can prime the pump a few times before starting to rule out check valve, mine does it, i have done everything except the valve under the plenum... already done the thing at the back, AFM etc idle is perfect, just that cold start issue. done it whole time i have had my car and never failed me, but gonna chase it down before i sell...

mine does the same thing, cold morning start up and the idle is rough and hunts around for afew seconds then piks up the revs to the 1500 (or so) then settles to 1200 or sumfin.

if i start it and hold the accelerator abit its starts perfect nice and smooth

its been doin it for a while. ive primed it several times before i start it but it stil does it

im gona giv this AAC valve clean a go and see what the results are :happy:

well hugh care to share with us? Where did u get ur manual?

Ben what are you doing on thursday?

I'm keen to clean both those valves on thursday... Anyone done them? How hard is it?

I'm probably available Thursday night, but won't be leaving work until after 5. Saturday would be a better bet if you want to run some diags.

Ok,

So i need to clean this :

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...l&hl=idling (AAC Valve)

And this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...nce-t69151.html (Air Regulator)

Ryan, You talk of one being under the plenum and it being a Kent to get to.... which one is that? by the looks of those two it doesnt seem like either of them?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...nce-t69151.html (Air Regulator)

Ryan, You talk of one being under the plenum and it being a Kent to get to.... which one is that? by the looks of those two it doesnt seem like either of them?

Hey mate

I'm sure that "Air regulator Maintenance DIY" is just for rb20's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...