Jump to content
SAU Community

N1 Turbo's Rev Range R32 Gtr

JETGTR

By JETGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

aDrew_C Enthusiast

aDrew_C

Posted
Posted

This topic has gotten a bit out of hand, but if everyone wants to argue twin vs single, might I add the weight issue. Twins may mean smaller turbos but two small turbos still generally weigh more than one bigger one. Then there's the extra intake piping and exhaust dump/front pipes. IMO twin turbo only has three obvious advantages: 1, supposed efficiency gains - not so true these days. 2, if the turbos are setup sequentially - again, how many sequential tt cars have been made after the early 90's? and 3, cheaper upgrade path (for already tt cars) as well as keeping the standard look.

So really the only reasons to go with twins on a GTR is either for regulation reasons with motorsport, cost, or to keep your from being defected.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
So really the only reasons to go with twins on a GTR is either for regulation reasons with motorsport, cost, or to keep your from being defected.

or to make over 500AWKW and run faster at the strip than all but one of all the street registered GTR's in Australia.

Mark, Russ and myself tend to disagree...i dont think any of the above factors you listed came into it.

lol

its horses for courses really...some people like twins...others prefer single.

ive switched from twins to single and to be honest...singles suck!....so far anyway.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Cjmartz2k Proficient

Cjmartz2k

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don't prefer either. I think it depends on the particular turbo or turbos. R32-33 N1's suck compared to a lot of other ones out there. I don't think one type of set up is better or worse than another just because it's twins or a single.

oh and the ITB difference to a Single is rather evident if you look at the likes of a GTI-R compared to the same spec SR20DET with a single..

I really think the ITB's only help with throttle response and not low end grunt, but I have no hard facts to back that up. Now if you compare the RB25 long runner intake and single TB compared to the short runner RB26 intake with ITB's, the 25 will win out down low every time. Higher in the rpm range is different though.

BTW, I didn't know the GTI-R had ITB's on an SR. Cool. :)

Edited by Cjmartz2k
aDrew_C Enthusiast

aDrew_C

Posted
Posted (edited)
Not really sure what weight and piping have to do with response/spool/performance...

Just adding another point to the debate. If everything else is equal you have to consider the extra weight as a negative for twins.

Yes if you want some crazy unstreetable power then my points about singles don't hold as true. For people who care about response twins are fine in bolt on replacement form because of the cost saved and the standard look to the engine bay, but for under 400rwkw a good single setup makes more sense when it comes to what matters to me - torque curve vs weight. Going by that merit an LSX is the best option for the money..... what was that I said about this thread getting a bit out of hand? :banana:

Edited by aDrew_C

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...