Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Easiest way to power a system like that:

Quality: http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php...mp;productId=12

Value: http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php...mp;productId=38

Good pair of Splits for the front:

Italian: http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php...amp;productId=5

British: http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php...mp;productId=52

Good installers? Are you closer to Sydney or Newcastle?

Newcastle: http://www.shoppingsecure.com.au/index.php...mp;productId=43

Syndey: I will need to get back to you if its closer

Everyone was throwing in their opinions I thought I might as well throw in mine! :P

i wouldnt use jaycar gear as an anchor for a boat, let alone put it in a car. you're playing with yourself if you think otherwise, it's not better than option audio shit.

Hey its a decent option, it did win 1st place over lots of big hitters ?

and yes I do know a tiny bit about pro car audio, 16 + years worth of it now.

not knocking Option Audio, its a great product as well.

doesnt matter what brand if its installed like crap is the point Im making

thanks guys for all the help. ;)

The only thing im struggling with is going to be the installation of the whole thing :) I forgot about all the wiring rules like Certain cables run down one side and other cables the other side, stuff like that :stupid:

All brands have their place. If I had the choice of using a high quality Italian amplifier or one of the Option Audio or Jaycar amplifers then I would choose the Italian one. I would get a lot more quality but my wallet would also be substantially lighter.

As for the wiring rules, keep your RCA cables away from your power cables, simple.

i got my system installed by Car Audio Excellence in Penrith in my old car, and they always play it safe with their installs and dont tune the system to its true potential. When i got the car back i thought "is this it?" and then got home and started playing with the amp settings. It sounded so much cleaner and deeper when i finished. It did put extra strain on the Amp but it was a shitty boss amp so i didnt really care.

Point: Install/Tune makes a huge difference

Just realised that your in the opposite direction from Sydney than Newcastle! I can't edit my post..

A good quality 4 guage power kit is what I would use. I can't recommend any kits that I know off by heart.

Just realised that your in the opposite direction from Sydney than Newcastle! I can't edit my post..

A good quality 4 guage power kit is what I would use. I can't recommend any kits that I know off by heart.

4 ga wire can handle the power below in red. it should be fine your install, any 2 amp wiring kit, with 4 gauge in it should be fine, you do get what you pay for in connections kits. but dont overlook ebay , most of that is more then good enough on a budget .

otherwise, street wires, or any name brand from the dealers. I used US Audio for the cheap installs, works fine saves some cash

4 GA max load is 135amps, 60amps continuous load safe

I thought he wanted a budget system, and not going for crazy install type.

Thats why i recommended the Response series, but if you wanna' start being an idiot then yeah, lets go Digital Designs over your Option audio ..

Dont start ranting here if you got nothin' better to do Mr Clinton..

As for wiring, I havent tried the whole " ebay wiring kit " venture so i cant comment.. Spend a lil' bit of money and get something reliable, coz' you need to understand your running a fair amount of power through these wires, and if something was to go wrong .. well you get the picture.

So i would recommend nothing smaller than 4Guage IMHO.

http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-AP962-1000W-...4GA-p/ap962.htm

or

http://www.ryda.com.au/Stinger-SWK4-Amplif...-4GA-p/swk4.htm

I'd go Aerpro for your simple setup.

MRXTCZ

I thought he wanted a budget system, and not going for crazy install type.

Thats why i recommended the Response series, but if you wanna' start being an idiot then yeah, lets go Digital Designs over your Option audio ..

Dont start ranting here if you got nothin' better to do Mr Clinton..

As for wiring, I havent tried the whole " ebay wiring kit " venture so i cant comment.. Spend a lil' bit of money and get something reliable, coz' you need to understand your running a fair amount of power through these wires, and if something was to go wrong .. well you get the picture.

So i would recommend nothing smaller than 4Guage IMHO.

http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-AP962-1000W-...4GA-p/ap962.htm

or

http://www.ryda.com.au/Stinger-SWK4-Amplif...-4GA-p/swk4.htm

I'd go Aerpro for your simple setup.

MRXTCZ

FYI - most wiring for the ebay kits is re labeled or unbranded kits from china,asian for big companies, like aeropro, stinger, etc

the installers/biz owners like myself who visit the dealers at the CES in vegas can attest to that. doesnt make it rubbish.

the thing to watch for is the RCA wires, some are pure crap, used stinger brand for a long time with only a few failures over the years on RCA

power wires dont fail unless , too much current is pulled thru them ,burn jackets from being to close to heat sources like exhaust, or sharp objects cutting into the sides. just make sure the jacket is flame proof, flexible, do not use solid core wire, never , ever!!!! in a car

and fuse/ curcuit breaker at the battery is setup to blow before the amps load, I would use a breaker, lots cheaper in the long run and quicker to reset

if the amps max current draw =110 amps

use a 80/100 amp fuse/ breaker at the battery to" PROTECT THE CAR" , not the amps, the amps should be fused on the side of them or very close by to amps if the fuse isnt on the side of curcuit board already.

you will never hit the fuse breaker point in 99.99% of the situations playing music, but a short curcuit to ground will hit it in a milli-sec. which is enough to start the car on fire from arc welding thru 4ga cable? so make it as close as humanly possible to the battery, and use damn good grounds, battery terminals too ???

I need a amp kit and a power kit yeh?

need both or just amp kit will do? lol

and you would recommend stinger brand? or .... ?

Edited by Black R34 GT-T
  • 3 weeks later...
thanks guys for all the help. ;)

The only thing im struggling with is going to be the installation of the whole thing :laugh: I forgot about all the wiring rules like Certain cables run down one side and other cables the other side, stuff like that :D

hey mate, im a fitter if your still looking for an installer, im located near chatswood just contact me on 0414 69 00 83 if u want a quote

cheers, paul

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...