Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone

just one thing iv been thinking bout lately is the the stock denso supra fuel pump

that flow 330lph at 13.5 volts

now i bought a s/h nismo pump and ended up being dodgey i cant really afford to spend $550+ on a new one

so iv been looking in to these fuel pumps i can get them for bout $250 new

which i think is good value and out flows the nismo one by a far bit

there 51mm in diameter so same size as stock so shouldnt have to many drams fitting them

and denso is no shit brand or there not gunna fail like the walbros

whats ppls thoughts on these

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282143-denso-supra-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

These genuine denso supra pumps are really great units...i drive a supra now and researching them they have been known to flow enough for small to medium singles...lotsa guys running street setups putting out 300rwkw on the stock pumps...

Can i ask...where can you get them for $250 new? i've been trying to source them and get quoted over well above $400 for a pump...

heres details from suppler

Hi mate, pump flows 330lph at 13.5 volts and is 51mm in

diameter. Its made by KYOSAN japan which is a good O.E.M

supplier to toyota, mazda etc.

It is identical in appearance to the denso 51mm fuel pump. Has

also the same connectors as the denso. However flows more than

the denso as has a twin pump system. The denso only flows

220lph and this flows 330lph.

Its the highest flowing intank pump that we know of and have

ever come accross as we test all our pumps to see which are the

best to use in our customer cars.

This pump will have enough flow to supply as much, if not more

than an bosch 044 used with a surge tank (so saves you a lot of

money having to convert to a surge tank setup).

We have tested and know guaranteed that this pump flows over

300lph as thats all our test unit flow up to as there isn't a test unit

that will show over 300lph, most only go up to 200 - 250lph.

So guarantee that you wont be disappointed otherwise your

money back guarantee and comes with 12 months warrantee. We

don't sell cheap aftermarket products only the best genuine

performance products and test everything to perform before we

sell it and back everything we sell with a 12 month warrantee.

These pumps will retail for over $700, only reason we sell them

so cheap is because we are wholesalers and purchase in bulk.

So give us a call next week and they should be in.

thanks P.W

-

  • 4 months later...

Digging up an old thread, where abouts where you able to purchase the Denso and what was the part number.

Is it the Denso 195130-1020? Or was it the Kyosan pump (modified denso pump)? Thew flow figures suggest the later.

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

...re-digging up an old thread...

Can the standard fuel pump controller in a R33 GTR be used with a Bosch 044 fuel pump? Or am I better off grounding it so the pump sees the full voltage all the time?

Cheers,

Mike

Ground it at a minimum.. measure the voltage you are getting at the pump afterward and decide if you need a larger feed, I did.. but considering you have a 33, you don't have the wiring run from front of the car to the back so you might be ok.

Edited by heller44

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...