Jump to content
SAU Community

3037s Went Pop Rebuild Or Gt35r?

Justa32

By Justa32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Justa32 Rising Star

Justa32

Posted
Posted

Drivin home last night, snail went pop, emo deep inside me came out.. anyway, Im thinking of rebuilding the 3037s and putting a t3 .82 rear on it (currently running .73 t2) or should i just fork out the bigger bucks and go for a gt35r with a .63 rear? Either way ive got to buy a 6boost and f**k the t2 mani off. So whats your thorts? Its a redtop rb2.2 with tomei poncams.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282567-3037s-went-pop-rebuild-or-gt35r/
Share on other sites
limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

Hmmm...so many options...what kind of power are you after and how much response do you wanna lose down low? i'd lean towards a gt3076 with a 0.63 exhaust housing...or maybe a 0.82 but that might be quite large for a 2.2L...

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Red top is an R31 engine isn't it ?

You can answer you rebuild question by asking yourself if you liked the performance you had before the puff of smoke .

I would be very wary of GT3582Rs on an RB20 based engine , pretty big turbine and compressor for an engine with small cylinders ie 2L based six cylinder .

If you hold high hopes of generating and using 320Kw then a turbo like that may have some value , I can't see it ...

Even GT30 based turbos are pretty healthy sized things on an RB20 (+10%) , people tell me it's the limited valve and port area in them that dictates gas flow and therefore power ceilings .

Anyhow you need to identify which 3037 you have to know what can be done with it . If it's same one as the GT3076R then you can order cartridges for them and fit whichever sized GT30 turbine housing you like in gated or non gated form .

If your 3037 has a ported comp cover try to reuse that , could save you some money .

If you can post the ID tags numbers I can identify which one it is and then its a case of seeing which parts need to be replaced if you want to go that way .

Your call , cheers A .

Justa32 Rising Star

Justa32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I dont mind the 3037, but it will still be really hard to break 400 @ the wheels with it, the gt35 on the other hand will produce more power with lower boost which id much rather have. My main concern is how laggy it will be, i dont mind abit of lag aslong as its on before 5.5kish.

Edited by Justa32
Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

A loose water line won't cook it, thats more of an additional safety thing - so long as it had a good oil feed/drain it should have been fine.

Either way, a GT3076R will crack 400hp @ wheels fine... if you are struggling to with a 56-trim full GT3076R then its the engine moreso than the turbo which isn't flowing enough.

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted
400rwhp with a 3076r isnt really the easiest thing to achieve with an rb20... sry but i dont agree with your post.

What you said above is not disagreeing with my post - a GT3076R is FINE for 400rwhp, and as you said above its not the easiest thing to do on an RB20. Thats not because of the RB20 + GT3076R combination, its because of the RB20 part of it. You have to spend the money to make an RB20 making >400whp, or push it that hard. GT3076Rs are making >400whp left right and centre on better motors - you could upgrade to an RB25 when you change your turbo then the 400whp will be easy >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...