Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not sure if there is a thread anywhere on this, but the search facility doesn't seem to be working.

How big a job is it to remove the transfer case to inspect/replace the clutch pack?

I am told thats whats gone on mine...

many thanks

bump..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282851-transfer-case/#findComment-4765039
Share on other sites

They are expensive to replace from what I've heard, are you 100% sure its the clutch pack? Did someone take it apart and have a look or is it a guess?

I broke an actual shaft inside my transfer case, I bought a second hand one and kept the parts that were intact :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282851-transfer-case/#findComment-4766684
Share on other sites

They are expensive to replace from what I've heard, are you 100% sure its the clutch pack? Did someone take it apart and have a look or is it a guess?

I broke an actual shaft inside my transfer case, I bought a second hand one and kept the parts that were intact :(

have asked a few people and the generally concensus is that i's the clutch pack..

under hard acceleration this kinda judder jumpy feeling came from the passenger side floor with a nasty crunchy noise.

Now I just have rear wheel drive ( if all four wheels are lifted and the cars in gear..the fronts do spin but they can be stopped with your foot.) The pump seems to be priming ok but I'm not sure how to check the pressure..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282851-transfer-case/#findComment-4769652
Share on other sites

Interesting, my car effectively stopped moving, both rear and front when the shaft broke, I could release the clutch and rev to 3K RPM, wait 3 seconds and then the car would start moving.

In fact it would not stall with clutch out.

Anyway, Racepace and Award diff and gearbox are known to rebuild them, but neither are cheap, from memory $800-1000, I went second hand for $400. I saw one around $200 second hand at the time but unknown condition...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282851-transfer-case/#findComment-4769689
Share on other sites

I am now in a similar situation.. transfer case clutch packs gone. Hardly surprising considering the age, condition and usage. Mine just spins off same as a motorbike clutch slipping when it is stuffed, gauge moves but rears spin. Checked that pump works, bled system, and then dropped it in to a local specialist workshop for confirmation. I don't have a gauge assembly to test the pressure.

Rebuild and labour I was quoted just on $2.5k. I have picked up a secondhand unit which I will be inspecting and probably get the same workshop to fit. Cost will be closer to 1k, if everything is good, big if though.. They picked a bad intake manifold leak as well so yet more repairs that I have to do..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282851-transfer-case/#findComment-4770151
Share on other sites

Perth is a very small city.. That quote was including the labour for removal and refit of the gearbox as well as the work on the gearbox itself, if you aren't adding that into your consideration.

All up I considered it a fair price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282851-transfer-case/#findComment-4770609
Share on other sites

Who quoted the 2.5K? My previous calls were a lot lower on price for a rebuild, I think it was $1400 or so with the upgraded clutch packs to handle higher power levels...

are ere any online traders who have uprated clutch packs??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282851-transfer-case/#findComment-4770616
Share on other sites

Perth is a very small city.. That quote was including the labour for removal and refit of the gearbox as well as the work on the gearbox itself, if you aren't adding that into your consideration.

All up I considered it a fair price.

Ok sure, as long as your happy with the price.

Just FYI, here in Melbourne the $400 second hand included the labor to remove/fit the second hand transfer case. Rebuilds obviously cost more, good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282851-transfer-case/#findComment-4772751
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...