Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm just wondering what the stock hight wheel centre to wheel arch lip of a 98 R34GT-t is I've searched and come up with nix , probably just looking in the wrong place.

:P

380/385 mm front and 370/375 mm rear, that's new off the production line floor.

Cheers

Gary

380/385 mm front and 370/375 mm rear, that's new off the production line floor.

Cheers Gary

Thanks Garry,

reason I asked is that I have aftermarket springs in , probably Kings judging from the yellow colour which have the vehicle at 350mm front and rear , the ride though OK seems a little harsh however Kings tell me the set is aprox 3.3/3.1 kg/mm so I was wondering if the drop had been excessive and thus encouraged some harshness and now knowing what it is I doubt that a lowering F30-35 & R20-25 would be resposible so perhaps it's just me.

It remains of some concern however as tomorrow both castor rod bushes are being replace with Nylex jobbys as one of the OE ones has popped and the silicone lubricant is buisey leaking out, I have no way of knowing if this is just a normal thing in this model or if I need to be quickly thinking of a spring change before more damage is done.

Cheers ,

Al.

Edited by BASHO

hm I'm at 360 all round right now and it's pretty harsh as it is ... bilsteins + stock springs. Would love to go 350F + 340R (with whiteline springs) but I'm afraid I'm gonna start hating the car if the ride quality becomes any harsher than it is.

Thing that shits me, I once took a ride in someone elses GTT when we were comparing suspensions ..and I think his was stock suspensions + chopped springs at around 340/330 and it didn't feel harsh at all, well not any worse than mine at 360/360. No idea how that's even possible

Well bushes in, all good, wheel align tomorrow, I'm thinking that its probably just me with the harshness, the bumps that cause concern would cause concern in nearly anything , I don't have anything to compare it with, my only worry is possible damage to other components if these springs are to harsh.

Cheers again for the info ,

:P Al.

Well bushes in, all good, wheel align tomorrow, I'm thinking that its probably just me with the harshness, the bumps that cause concern would cause concern in nearly anything , I don't have anything to compare it with, my only worry is possible damage to other components if these springs are to harsh.

Cheers again for the info ,

:P Al.

What sort of bump stops are you running and have they been trimmed to suite the lowered height?

Cheers

Gary.

What sort of bump stops are you running and have they been trimmed to suite the lowered height?

Cheers Gary.

:P Never thought of that -stupid me--AFAIK stock and I'll be bettin that that they aint been trimmed either, I'll check tomorrow when it's getting the wheel alignment.

How hard are these to remove and trim and of course by how much considering I'm presuming I'm running stocky shockys ?

I'm say 35 lower front and 25 lower rear.

Is there a tutorial anywhere on this one I wonder?

Cheers,

Al.

heh I have the generic bump stops from the GB and car was lowered about 2cm .. I have a strong suspicion Heasmans didn't bother trimming the new bump stops for me either. I'll just have to make sure they're spot on when I get the new springs/swaysbars chucked in soon.

Would bump stops that are 2cm too big cause noticable ride harshness?

Hmmm I am wondering if the bumpstops is what is causing the noise on my ER34. My drop is 345mm front and back, I tried unlocking the washers on the coilover to the back and they won't budge. Gonna have to remove the entire setup and maybe scrap form the top and take it all off and then reassemble once I get them loose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...