Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz, i just got my car a few days back and i now want to resolve some of the problems with it... the 1st thing is i wanted to know how many o2 sensors are there on my R34 GTT and where can i find it, since i find my fuel economy pretty low so i wanted to get them changed.. Where can i get an o2 sensor for my R34 i live in Melbourne..[ Does anyone have a pic of where the o2 sensor is located in a R34]

The 2nd thing is this may sound noobish but.. how many spark plugs are there in a R34, and why do ppl sell 6 together?? And where can i find a 0.88mm spark plug as my tuner said that my car maybe missfiring bcuz of the spark plug..

Any inputs will be appreciated... Thanks alot guyz...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283382-o2-sensor-and-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

Hey guyz, i just got my car a few days back and i now want to resolve some of the problems with it... the 1st thing is i wanted to know how many o2 sensors are there on my R34 GTT and where can i find it, since i find my fuel economy pretty low so i wanted to get them changed.. Where can i get an o2 sensor for my R34 i live in Melbourne..[ Does anyone have a pic of where the o2 sensor is located in a R34]

The 2nd thing is this may sound noobish but.. how many spark plugs are there in a R34, and why do ppl sell 6 together?? And where can i find a 0.88mm spark plug as my tuner said that my car maybe missfiring bcuz of the spark plug..

Any inputs will be appreciated... Thanks alot guyz...

Your economy could be bad definately from a bad o2 sensor. It sits on the dump pipe after the turbo. you can see it. 3 wires coming out of it.

6 plugs because your car has 6 cylinders. 1 plug per cylinder. You can buy any plugs from any autospares shop. Pre gapped to that spec

yeah as said, your car has 6 plugs. the part number you want is BCPR6ES. they should set you back about $4 or $5 a plug. they will be gapped to 0.8mm which is fine. you won't find any gapped at 0.88mm.

o2 sensor is on the dump pipe. they can be a bit hard to get out without the proper socket, although sometimes you can get it with a spanner or shifter. just depends on the angle on which the sides are on. both the tool and the sensor should be available from any auto parts store with half a brain.

as for the fuel economy, it could be due to the o2 sensor, but that isn't the only possible cause. firstly, what sort of economy are you getting? in L/100kms or how many kms you went on how many litres (then i can just do the conversion) preferably, not just "i get XXXkms to a tank". how you drive plays the biggest part in fuel economy. if you boost it everywhere then expect crap economy. just because it is only 2.5L doesn't mean much when there is a squid hanging off the side of the motor. my r33 got the worst economy of any car i have owned (and i've had 4 other aussie built 6 cylinders). that was because i have a lead foot. another misconception is that just driving at low rpm will save fuel. this is only half right. if you floor it but only rev to 3000rpm you will use more fuel than someone who only uses very light throttle but revs out to 5000rpm. once you get past a certain load point (basically how much accelerator you are using) the ecu stops using the o2 sensor to determine the ait/fuel ratio and goes to the proper mapping. generally this will take the air/fuel ratio from being around 14 or 15 to 1 down to around 11 to 1 on a stock ecu.

other things that can cause poor economy are a dodgy thermostat. if it doesn't close properly the car will take longer to come up to temp, or not come up to temp at all so the car will run on cold start enrichment much longer than it should.

if you let the car idle to warm up before you drive anywhere then that will waste a fair bit of fuel as well. or if you do a lot of stop/start driving in traffic you will use much more fuel than someone who drove the same distance at the speed limit and didn't have to stop at all.

Well, ill check at autobarn about the Spark plus.. Thnx about that!!

And well i guess its mostly my O2 sensor since its not been changed and my car is at 140k kms, and well today on complete highway driving i got 7.6km/1L and on normal days with city driving i get around 6.1km/1L , Thats like around 430km on highway and 330km in city driving on a tank of 55L..

Thnx again!!

yeah your highway economy is a little bit high, so be worth doing. just remember that the ecu doesn't read off the o2 sensor when you put your foot down. so if you drive through the city giving it a bit of beans then your economy won't change. however if you spend time sitting on the one speed through the city, and the same on the highway, you will get better economy from a new o2 sensor.

you can check your o2 sensor with a multimeter, or a consult cable. or you could just unplug it and drive around for a tank and see what sort of economy you get. if it doesn't change then you know your o2 sensor is stuffed. if it changes dramatically (gets worse) then you know the sensor is fine and it is going to be other things. if your economy gets better without the sensor then the sensor may be stuffed or you may have a short somewhere. normally when they die they make the car use more fuel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...