Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys & girls

i been doing a bit of research into what i should be looking at for my 180sx head

i want to be able to drive on the street but then use it at the AHG skid pan and sprit track

i want to get around 350 Hp would be nice, maybe a little lower to have good response

atm i got :

micro tech ecu

GT25R turbo

AVC-R Boost controller

After market intercooler (think its hybrid)

3" exhaust cat and cannon

Adj coil overs and shocks (unsure what brand)

Upgraded front Brakes Slotted from r32

Bosch indiviual coil packs

walbro 250L/h pump

malpassi fuel pressure reg

550cc injector (think they are sard)

think that is about maybe some other little things

The head system i was looking at getting is as follows:

Tomei type B springs -double spring

- with retainers

- with spring sheet all for $820

Tomei Pro cams IN & EX 260 12mm lift

With 2 x adj cam gears all for $940

Tomei Rocker arm stoppers $80

Tomei Solid Pivot set -solid pivots x8

-test shims x4(2.7)

-test guide x4(2.8) $354

Tomei Valve guides full set x 16 $320

Total $2514

I know i will probably need new valves and get everything polished

and a new head gasket. probably a metal 1.2 or 1.4mm

just need some help with if this would be any good for street/track use

I don't know too much about cams and that..

just getting some advice

thanks everyone...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283499-sr20det-180sx/
Share on other sites

Na i haven't posted on silvia WA there are alot of posts about this sorta thing on there, so i thought i would get a different view on it...

GWP021: Man i owe you like 100 buks, and my clunker will give yours a good run... :cool:

just wait i will be beating you at AHG soon enough hehehehehe....

NIB: k thanks man just trying to get different views...

I need to go talk to "tim" he is a SR20 specilist Owns Sik em wrex racing see what he thinks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283499-sr20det-180sx/#findComment-4774711
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...