Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys & girls

i been doing a bit of research into what i should be looking at for my 180sx head

i want to be able to drive on the street but then use it at the AHG skid pan and sprit track

i want to get around 350 Hp would be nice, maybe a little lower to have good response

atm i got :

micro tech ecu

GT25R turbo

AVC-R Boost controller

After market intercooler (think its hybrid)

3" exhaust cat and cannon

Adj coil overs and shocks (unsure what brand)

Upgraded front Brakes Slotted from r32

Bosch indiviual coil packs

walbro 250L/h pump

malpassi fuel pressure reg

550cc injector (think they are sard)

think that is about maybe some other little things

The head system i was looking at getting is as follows:

Tomei type B springs -double spring

- with retainers

- with spring sheet all for $820

Tomei Pro cams IN & EX 260 12mm lift

With 2 x adj cam gears all for $940

Tomei Rocker arm stoppers $80

Tomei Solid Pivot set -solid pivots x8

-test shims x4(2.7)

-test guide x4(2.8) $354

Tomei Valve guides full set x 16 $320

Total $2514

I know i will probably need new valves and get everything polished

and a new head gasket. probably a metal 1.2 or 1.4mm

just need some help with if this would be any good for street/track use

I don't know too much about cams and that..

just getting some advice

thanks everyone...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283499-sr20det-180sx/
Share on other sites

Na i haven't posted on silvia WA there are alot of posts about this sorta thing on there, so i thought i would get a different view on it...

GWP021: Man i owe you like 100 buks, and my clunker will give yours a good run... :cool:

just wait i will be beating you at AHG soon enough hehehehehe....

NIB: k thanks man just trying to get different views...

I need to go talk to "tim" he is a SR20 specilist Owns Sik em wrex racing see what he thinks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/283499-sr20det-180sx/#findComment-4774711
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...