Need More Lock On R32

[nsmo30tt]

has anyone actually used a S13 steering rack.. and does it increase lock at all?

[Dan_J]

S13 / S14 rack apparently 10mm or so longer ... more lock

no, a s14 rack is longer then a 13 so yes more lock, but a r32 rack is a bit more longer then a s13 rack.

i know that the s13 has a better turning circle from factory specs compared to the r32 so that might have some thing to do with the wheelbase/ the different front suspension set up

Edited June 6, 2010 by Dan_J

[nsmo30tt]

so... if I want more lock should I replace my R32 rack with a S14? Or are they around the same

Edited June 6, 2010 by 30edR32

[snappy_]

Okay my turning circle is farkin shithouse, my car isnt for the track or anything just something to get around in.

I have 17x9 +24 and im about to put r33 lcas, and should i get the spacers in there too?

will this setup scrub the rails at all?

oh and front is lowered 2.5inch if that helps too.

[nsmo30tt]

Anyone have R32 and S14 rack lengths from end to end where the tie rods bolt in?

[32_Dave]

1. 33 LCA or s14 same thing

2. remove bump stop

2. 33 steering rack or s14 same thing

2. Gktech spacers some jap branded ones are bigger

3. Cut and shut steering rack 10-20mm forwards depending how game u are (corrects tie-rod angle)

4. DO NOT BUY NIGELS KNUCKLES - they are shit.

5. look into properly branded knuckles that correct suspension geomatry and dont f**k your ackerman.

and u will have something like this...

Edited June 7, 2010 by 32_Dave

[nsmo30tt]

1. 33 LCA or s14 same thing

2. remove bump stop

2. 33 steering rack or s14 same thing

2. Gktech spacers some jap branded ones are bigger

3. Cut and shut steering rack 10-20mm forwards depending how game u are (corrects tie-rod angle)

4. DO NOT BUY NIGELS KNUCKLES - they are shit.

5. look into properly branded knuckles that correct suspension geomatry and dont f**k your ackerman.

AND!

looks like it. if the arm isnt flat you need to get it as close to flat as possibly you will need to do some measuring etc. but its usually around 20mm or even as high as you can get the arm, you should also look into your rear geomatry, it will be f**ked at that height. check simons thread in DIY.

Thanks Dave.. not always easy to find someone who has done it and can actually help. I feel embaressed for asking this, but what exactly do you mean cut and shut.. even better got a pic of yours?

And sorry for being a bit slow with handling components, but when you say to redrill the the front LCA's are you meaning where the castor rods bolt in?? If not please let me know

Also is a S13 steering rack pointless and I should just sell it and buy a S14/R33 one?

Edited June 7, 2010 by 30edR32

[XRATED]

Has anyone used the "powered by max/gtfactory" super steering angle kit on a 32 gtst?

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?15

J.

[Dan_J]

cut and shut rack= rack steel mounts cut off and welded forward on the crossmember

redrill?= i guess u mean #2 ,grind the thing on ur front lca that looks like a V that ur tie rod ends hits ( or gets close to ) at full lock as wen u get too much lock it will foul on that stopping anymore lock. oops that for the s13, for the gts4 ( not sure if gts front lca are the same) u have this lil square block thats on an angle(i think thats the one as there isnt anything else there?), grind that down.

keep the s13 rack while u find the s14 one

the cut and shut is more for hardcore drifters

4. DO NOT BUY NIGELS KNUCKLES - they are shit.

slander aint good, i hear there are great. also those knuckles are made to fix ackerman.

Edited June 7, 2010 by Dan_J

[nsmo30tt]

Thanks Dan, I think I'll be looking out for s S14 rack and also I'm not going to keep the gts4 LCA's for long I'm on the look out for some S14 ones and I'll miss out on the cut and shut. I get what I'm grinding off, but I'll go jack my car up and have a look at my LCA's now to see what I'm redrilling as I'm still not 100% certain.. I'm sure it will become clear after I have a look.. or I'd hope so. Sorry I didn't make the re-drill question very clear I was going off this

if ur car is low low you re-drill a hole higher then original to re-gain factory suspension geomatry.

from Dave.

Ok I didn't jack it up but from what I could see.. im confused so if anyone has pictures of what the re-drilled, that would be extremely helpful.

Not too sure how LCA's in my car look normally, but here is mine.. I hope its not meant to be flat.. (please excuse the bad phone pic)

Also another side question.. are these recomemnded?

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/im...nTieRodEnds.jpg

Thanks

Edited June 7, 2010 by 30edR32

[Dan_J]

oh ok, the redrill will have to do with camber. this doesnt effect lock, just tyre wear and with extreme camber will cause understeer ( VIP style cars etc). some amount of front camber more then factory is good for turnin / oversteer( more front grip). you dont need to worry about it as it is fine the way it is for your street type set up. there are aftermarket ball joints that do the same thing as far as i know they are only for the rear lca.

as above, if the front lca where flat( stock ride height or the redrill method) u would have less camber as when u lower a car u get more camber aka the angled lca's as in your pic

you dont need them really as they dont give u any lock as far as i know..... putting washers ooops, i mean 'lock spacers' in your rack will give you more lock, they are just easier at times because they are adjustable

Edited June 8, 2010 by Dan_J

[nsmo30tt]

well would using "drop down tie rods" as in my link above increase handling at all or wear less than normal tie rod ends seening as theyre not at a angle. And surely someone must make drop down style ball joints.. but going the other way around obviously for the front LCA's or LCA's that have them built in

Edited June 8, 2010 by 30edR32

[Dan_J]

no idea, i've never used them or read much about them ,but surely it'll be answered soon enough by another member.

here is the link to the trader that sells the camber correction ball joints, think they only do rear r33 stuff

www.importautoparts.com.au

http://www.forums.secretdrift.com.au/index...t=0&start=0

[32_Dave]

Thanks Dave

nothing wrong with the s13 rack if its good condition

here is a pic of the xmember.

can barely tell can ya. moved forward a good 15mm

Has anyone used the "powered by max/gtfactory" super steering angle kit on a 32 gtst?

yes, i designed my own based on these they are a little diffrent but as pic above u will get similar results

cut and shut rack= rack steel mounts cut off and welded forward on the crossmember

redrill?

the cut and shut is more for hardcore drifters

slander aint good, i hear there are great. also those knuckles are made to fix ackerman.

cut and shut is a basic fabrication term for cut and re-weld.

redrill LCA piviot bolt do not re-drill castor that'll f**k the pickup point.

todd from SD, had powered by max, went to nigels and had more dramas, should of just kept the max ones.

Edited June 8, 2010 by 32_Dave

[32_Dave]

also dont notch your LCA thats dodge, just take off the bump stop.

[nsmo30tt]

Can i just grind the bump stop off.. and thanks for clearing that up.. didn't think doing the castor rod holes would have worked out.. you got a pic of yours redrilled anyway?

[32_Dave]

Can i just grind the bump stop off.. and thanks for clearing that up.. didn't think doing the castor rod holes would have worked out.. you got a pic of yours redrilled anyway?

have not required to re-drill. car is just bellow flat at the front but must come up a tad. yeah just grind off the bump stop but make sure the rack isnt going 100% travel (therefore being its own bumpstop)

[Duncan]

yes grant....that is a perfect example of a car that is way too low and probably has f**ked geometery.

I think someone mentioned "drop down ball joints" above. You can get longer ones from fulcrum suspension, or we got ball joint spacers from Unique Autosports that move the lower arm mount 20mm which would help heaps. Top arm is still wrong though.

[Dan_J]

todd from SD, had powered by max, went to nigels and had more dramas, should of just kept the max ones.

ok thats better, there wasn't any info to back up your statement 1st tome round.

[nsmo30tt]

yes grant....that is a perfect example of a car that is way too low and probably has f**ked geometery.

I think someone mentioned "drop down ball joints" above. You can get longer ones from fulcrum suspension, or we got ball joint spacers from Unique Autosports that move the lower arm mount 20mm which would help heaps. Top arm is still wrong though.

Thanks Duncan... now I know where to get them I definitely will be getting some.

I have found these. Opinions?

They are adjustable for camber and have well what appears to be "drop down" ball joints

The only thing is they don't seem to have any brand.. and for $500 I'd prefer to buy something that is used and works well, anyone use anything like that?

Maybe they're okay.. driftworks and some others look exactly the same just different colours

Edited June 8, 2010 by 30edR32