Jump to content
SAU Community

Small Battery Terminals To 'normal' Size...


xanavinismo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

What part do I get to change my factory Japanese style small battery terminals to 'normal' larger ones? Is it something like 'Battery Terminal sleeves'? I have attached a picture of one example...

Cheers,

Glen

post-38738-1250488641_thumb.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

What part do I get to change my factory Japanese style small battery terminals to 'normal' larger ones? Is it something like 'Battery Terminal sleeves'? I have attached a picture of one example...

Cheers,

Glen

I bought some aftermarket car audio terminals, with mutiple inputs , lopped off the factory crap and popped the wires into my new ones. I think mine are US Audio ? look nice in satin silver with clear plastic molded covers I can pop up some photos tomorrow if you want to see them ? (sorry bit busy now)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just go autobahn or jb and they will have them

sorry mate, got really busy with friend in ICU at the hospital,, tomorrow the photos will be posted up.

I think you need to see how to do the factory wires into the after market terminal, cause if its wrong it will fall out and leave you stranded

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Stokesy.

Hey mate, sorry for the delay i completely forgot about it.

Here is a pic of my terminals i can't really get a better pic as i've reinstalled my amp rack. As you can see they're RF dual 0Ga + Dual 8Ga

post-36287-1251268451_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes stokesy is onto it. You can get all types of terminals. You can get all different sorts from any battery store for about $3 bucks each. Most places will change them over for you.

I think your better off keeping the optima upright too by the way. You can use them that way but they seam to last longer upright.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes stokesy is onto it. You can get all types of terminals. You can get all different sorts from any battery store for about $3 bucks each. Most places will change them over for you.

I think your better off keeping the optima upright too by the way. You can use them that way but they seam to last longer upright.

They last longer upright, really?

I've never heard that but then again I've ever really looked into in... It just makes it so much easier to access the terminals this way, I might look into this as i really don't want to kill a $400 battery

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We use to sell them where i worked at battery world. They encouraged us to ensure they were always upright unless you really have to install them sideways. Never upside down though. They dont allow that.

Im not a huge fan of isolator's. There are some fully automatic maintinance chargers that are designed to keep your battery fully charged when your not using your car. We use to put them in bikes and race cars ect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im not a huge fan of isolator's. There are some fully automatic maintinance chargers that are designed to keep your battery fully charged when your not using your car. We use to put them in bikes and race cars ect.

From your experience what are the cons of using isolator's?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From your experience what are the cons of using isolator's?

those isolators suck dont use them, keep your battery charged up with a trickle charger or solar one

to keep your alarm powered up to protect the car in the shed.

(FYI ....if your high power battery dies you need a serious charger the cheapo ones wont fix it up. )

odessy/optima batteries can be mounted upside down or any which way. there certified for acrobatics use in aircraft hence upside down is fine ????

but the plates are stronger mounted normal side up. battery acid is sealed inside and is a gel and wont spill ?

if I get bored in the next few days I have a old odessy to break open if anyone wants to see inside it before it goes to recycling ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings.  This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice.
    • Grease the poly bushes as your first order of business. Moly grease. Spanner check everything else. Inspect LCA inner bushes.
    • It's usually associated with a muffler. Often in the middle of the muffler, sometimes at an inlet. Not removable by just slipping something out. usually needs butchery (read outright replacement of the muffler). There's absolutely nothing magic about any Jap exhaust brand. Totally generic. Totally replaceable with anything else that will do the job. I've replaced the centre muffler in mine a couple of times.
    • I've had a 9280, 9280's in stock form produce a bit of a whine when coming on unlike the 9180 so you may already like the turbo sound as it is.
×
×
  • Create New...