Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just put my pFC into my GTS-T and things are not going well.

I am just running with the base map at the moment and have it booked in for a tune for late jan.

I have a turbo smart bleed valve running 13psi on high and stock on low (about 7psi).

When i have it set to high boost the car runs like some body has put a orange up the exhaust (it almost feels like some sort of really fine ignition cut)?

On stock it run OK, I though it might be the fact that the PFC's base map is not designed for our fuel, or maybe the PFC does not run with bleed valves?

PS, there are no warning lights displayed or anything like that and the car is holding boost so I dont think there are any leaks in the piping for the FMIC or anything like that.

Any idea's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28439-pfc-pro-help/
Share on other sites

Hi GunMetalR33, I would have someone watch the Commander readout when you are driving it at full boost. If it is retarding the ignition timing or adding some fuel it will show up on the screen. This is not dangerous, in fact the ECU is protecting the engine.

Another issue may be the AFM maxing out its voltage, this is a dangerous situation. You can also easily see this on the Commander. If it is running lean it will result in knock which will show up on the dashboad warning light as well.

I would try running the boost at 10 to 12 psi and see what sort of results you get. It may be at 13 psi you are just "over the limit".

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28439-pfc-pro-help/#findComment-589765
Share on other sites

The base map may be fine for some people but it may not be fine for everyones car with infinite variety of modifications.

I would be watching the commander very closely especially the knock sensor reading.

I found that with the base map on my car it knocked too high at full throttle so i pulled it out until I can get it tuned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28439-pfc-pro-help/#findComment-590098
Share on other sites

I ran for ages on base map, but with only 0.6bar boost.

When my car went on the dyno to be tuned, I was glad I had kept the boost low, as it was still running very rich on boost and had AF ratios in the 10s.

Once it was tuned at 0.8 bar, with AF ratios at 12, it still had nearly 90% injector duty with stock injectors and fuel pump. Also, my AFM had run out of resolution (5.115V) by this stage too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28439-pfc-pro-help/#findComment-590157
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...