Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good to hear you finished it mate

have you finisher running it in yet?

(2000 km at 80km/hr = 25hrs driving :headspin: )

I am guessing that after all this time without the car you would run it in in one session (after all you can always stop at macas for food, so there is no real reason to get out)

Be very interested in your dyno results when you get them :D

  • Replies 221
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers mate :(

I've yet to rack up much more than 100k's ;) I plan to do a few 200-300k hills stints during quite periods. Being Xmas & lots happening it's hard to get time to go for a 'low key' drive. I'm not keen to do the daily driver thing.

LOL I like your 1 session idea :D Could always go to Melb' & back. It'd be painfully slow going back & forth through the gears all the way to vary the rpm though.

I'll post up dyno fig's as soon as it happens, early in the new yr I'm guessing.

  • 1 month later...

Suppose I may as well continue on with my thread rather than start a new one....

I've been soo damn busy that I've yet to reach a point were we can do a full power tune (pretty hopeless aren't I) I'm not keen to do any daily driving due to the defect situation so it means I'm taking even longer by only doing 200-300k hills runs :)

I did a painfully slow 1,000k's with lots of load, no more than ~5,000rpm, & no boost as best I could (maybe 2-4psi a few X's) After the 1k we put good mineral oil in (change after another 1k for Motul 300V 10W/40) then Shaun gave it a run to ~7k to check mixtures on boost were nice & safe. With the cam gears set back to stock settings (i.e 0), my HKS EVC turned off & very little real power tuning carried out it made just under 215rwkw (~10psi actuator pressure) With more rwkw to be had from tuning, a few more from cam gear adjustment (made good gains with old engine) & then another ~8-10psi boost (on pump fuel) it'll be interesting to see how it goes?

I don't think I'll get anywhere near 300rwkw on BP98.

Suppose I may as well continue on with my thread rather than start a new one....

I've been soo damn busy that I've yet to reach a point were we can do a full power tune (pretty hopeless aren't I) I'm not keen to do any daily driving due to the defect situation so it means I'm taking even longer by only doing 200-300k hills runs :)

I did a painfully slow 1,000k's with lots of load, no more than ~5,000rpm, & no boost as best I could (maybe 2-4psi a few X's) After the 1k we put good mineral oil in (change after another 1k for Motul 300V 10W/40) then Shaun gave it a run to ~7k to check mixtures on boost were nice & safe. With the cam gears set back to stock settings (i.e 0), my HKS EVC turned off & very little real power tuning carried out it made just under 215rwkw (~10psi actuator pressure) With more rwkw to be had from tuning, a few more from cam gear adjustment (made good gains with old engine) & then another ~8-10psi boost (on pump fuel) it'll be interesting to see how it goes?

I don't think I'll get anywhere near 300rwkw on BP98.

You can roughly work out how much boost you will need to make your old ~250-260rwkw figure. For every .5 of a CR you drop, you need an extra .15-.2 of a bar, so you may need say an extra .35 of a bar over 13psi to make your old power figure, thats not taking in to account headwork etc.

Good to hear things are ready to get serious.

I think you will find with your CR, and running forgies, you will be able to wind in heaps of ign timing, and run 2 bar all day without a problem (my beastie runs 1.7bar without a problem on the street), so I think 300+ is very realistic.

I hope also you have a really noisey exhaust, cos mine helped alot:)

So when is she going on the dyno for a proper tune?

You can roughly work out how much boost you will need to make your old ~250-260rwkw figure. For every .5 of a CR you drop, you need an extra .15-.2 of a bar, so you may need say an extra .35 of a bar over 13psi to make your old power figure, thats not taking in to account headwork etc.

joel how accurate is this estimate?

thanks in advance :(

Joel,

In reality though the current rwkw figure isn't really directly comparable to my old figure. The lack of cam gear adjustment, tamer tuning, & different boost characteristics on actuator pressure vs. EBC, would all make quite a difference. Even the ol' different dyno comes into it : ) as an extremely rough stab in the dark I’d say it’d make ~230rwkw on ~0.7bar (using the EBC) with more tuning & gears adjusted. I guess we’ll find out soon.

As a comparison an hr or so after Shaun ran my car he did Freebaggin’s car. It made 260rwkw on 1.2bar. It then made 265 then next day (more tuning) & resulted in a 12.8 @ 113.8mph (2.1 60’ ).

The final CR for my engine isn't quite as low as first intended either. Going by the info you posted mate I'll probably need ~0.2-0.25 more, if that.

EDIT - Sorry mate I got myself a bit off track in my above reply. I must be a bit slow today :Oops: My current vs. old rwkw figures have no real bearing to the rwkw/CR/boost theory you posted.

Good to hear things are ready to get serious.

I think you will find with your CR, and running forgies, you will be able to wind in heaps of ign timing, and run 2 bar all day without a problem (my beastie runs 1.7bar without a problem on the street), so I think 300+ is very realistic.

I hope also you have a really noisey exhaust, cos mine helped alot:)

So when is she going on the dyno for a proper tune?

1.7-2.0bar would be fun on the street :(

Yeah mate the exhaust is very noisy now. Dump pipe mods & deleted resonator saw to that.

I've got ~800k to go then it's tune time :) Hopefully next wk, work permitting.

joel how accurate is this estimate?

thanks in advance :(

Providing you don't change anything else that helps breathing (headwork, turbo etc) and only drop the compression ratio it is pretty accurate.

I've spoke to Tim @ RPM and he also seems to think the figures are around the mark to achieve the same final under boost compression ratio.

I used Dyno2003 to get the figures.

But yer.. in Matt's circumstance it is hard to apply as he has had a little bit of work done to help the breathing side of things.

Well I did ~260k up through the hills yesterday & I must say the new engine is excellent with some boost into it :D It's very responsive even with the EBC turned off. Obviously boost response will be quite different once final tuning is done (& EBC is controlling boost). The only downside - less restrictive exhaust means more noise. Sounds good echoing off the surroundings though :)

I now realise what Shaun meant about boost creeping up to 10-11psi on actuator pressure. The boost sits dead on 7psi (as per stock actuator) until ~6k then creeps to ~10psi.

Did a bit of monitoring of inlet & water temps too (no laptop atm so no full logging) The following temps were just snap shots, i.e what I saw when I looked x3. Not excatly hard'n'fast tech info but some may find it interesting?

Ambient temp - ~24'c

Water temp -

Steady accel from 80 to 110km/h+++ 82'-84'c. Later in the day (cooler ambient) 80'c.

Sitting on roadside for 3mins (post heavy accel) bonnet down temp hit 90'c, took 90sec on road to drop back to 84'c

Inlet air temp (IAT) reading via Microtech sensor just prior to throttle body -

Cruising at 50-60km/h IAT ~27-28'c

Steady accel 80 to 110km/h IAT ~25'c

Heavy accel to 110km/h (maybe a little more :D ) IAT as low as 19-20'c, this was later in the day so lower ambient.

Sitting on the roadside for 3mins (post heavy accel) bonnet down IAT hit 40'c, dropped to 28-29'c within 90sec on road.

Finally, I have to say having RE540S's all round is a blast through the hills, especially now I know the roads so well. Had a bit of fun with a Yamaha R1 who was behind me for a bit. I'm no great driver but I must've done ok 'cause, A) he didn't pass me, & B) he lifted his visor & gave me a grin & thumbs up :)

Jeeze I crapped on a bit there!

i love it when bike riders give u the thumbs up. i mean there basically no chance of beatin them unless ur munro. so when they acknowlege u, it means uve done alrite :D.

Matt: what rds u been cruisin down abit? Should catch up with u for a little run :)

I now realise what Shaun meant about boost creeping up to 10-11psi on actuator pressure. The boost sits dead on 7psi (as per stock actuator) until ~6k then creeps to ~10psi.

What did Shaun mean?!? :D

It didn't used to do it before did it?

Dean,

Yeah the bike rider giving me a thumbs up put a smile on my dial :D

I've mostly been going out to Mannum & then back through to Nurioopta, via Birdwood/Mount Pleasant/Eden Valley/Williamstown/Tanunda etc... Just depends on the day. I've got just under 600k till tune time :) 2 more runs & I'm done. Won't be heading to Mannum again for a while though. They've resurfaced the road out that way & it's stone chip city. Turned around & headed back the other day after 50mtrs of it :D

Joel,

When I had a look at the dyno sheet I asked Shaun what boost level it was running at. He said it was just starting to creep to ~10-11psi. I wasn't sure if the exhaust changes (removed resi & dump pipe modded) would effect the stock boost level? It certainly did change things. As far as I can recall the boost always sat dead on 7psi with EBC off, whereas now it just creeps up to ~10psi, in the manner mentioned above.

I hope I don't join the list of those that require a HKS actuator! 18-20psi is a big ask of the stock actuator/HKS EVC.

Hmmm.... $160 isn't as bad as I was expecting. Thanks for the info dean :)

Shite Steve, sounds scary mate! Glad to see the car looking AOK in the carpark this morning. You certainly do need 540S's. Of course they can still be provoked to let go if you try hard enough (managed a nice powerslide out of one Chain of Ponds corner).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...