Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 221
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I think all is now in order, are boost pressures right?

Will be better on the same dyno, Grepin's had a stronger mid range on the Boost Worx dyno compared to Tilbrook's.

EDIT: Oh yeah, kept the pink one for ya Matt, nothing else looked right!

Also made changes at 90km/h.

i think you need to put a vaue of 120kw @ 90kph for whatsisname's graph... it looks freakishly good around that point at the moment :( it will shape it more like the dyno graph with that value in... just being picky...

it's got an awesome mid-range though... i calculate an average of ~35rwkw extra between 80 and 130, with as much as 60kw at 100kph... that's almost like having an extra NA rb20 at the rear-wheels at 100kph :)

any chance of graphing an RB26 with around 260-280rwkw/awkw on there... would be interesting to see the difference in the power delivery.

Thats a great idea actually Lachlan, when was the last time we had an SAU dyno day? Do you think Shaun would be up for it?

It would be really nice to have a sort of comparison chart on here so people could see what different combos/mods have made - it would be a great info resource, and a fun day as long as Matt lays off the ELF:)

I hope all you guys are all competing at the Nats next weekend .... I wanna line some of you up :) - see how my wussy little stock internals and turbo SR20 goes against the big boys :)

Hey just curious wat either steve, freebaggin, greppin or whatsisname have done to there supension and diff for extra traction, if use have any traction.

Nice work on all your cars, use have all done very well for ur selves. Hope i make it to that stage myself, one day.

Top stuff Lach', love your work. Yep you got my boost level correct mate (1.3bar)

You know I like that pink so much I might just paint the car in it :D

Hope the carpet did the trick Steve? Yeah good idea re the SAU dyno day. I'd say Shaun/Boost Worx would be happy to host it. I'll have a chat to Shaun today (7Feb) & see what he thinks. I'd suggest waiting a month or so till temps come down a touch. Then I'll whack some ELF in & cheat ...... :) J/K

Mate I'd love to go bigger in the turbo dept, but $$$ are needed in other areas atm, so what I've got will do for now. I agree that my CR & response are surprising! Fresh engine perhaps? Headwork. Port matching manifolds. Could be a combo of things? Plus the turbo itself.

slyr33,

To help with traction I have:

Standard shocks - with king spring lows

Adjustable rear camber kit - set to minimal neg' for a flatter contact patch

Sub frame bushes (pineapples) - set for traction

RE540S rubber - my normal rubber, not really that good for drag use but I'll see how I go.

I really don't have big goals for quick ET's, I'm actually more interested in my TS, & having fun :D

I wanna get me camber done as well whatsisname. Where did u take your car to get done. I've seen a few tyre joints, but none seem "professional" :) in this area. ie I wanna take me car somewhere where someone else has been where they don't thrash your car and do a good job for the price. :D

does that make sense?

Bl4ck32,

I've used:

Southern Steering & Suspension down south - Whiteline dealer/know their stuff

Web Suspension on Nth East Rd - did aligning myself, but their equipment is top notch

Bridgestone on Gouger St - The current aligning was done by Laurie & the boys, Laurie no longer works there though, pity as he is a bloody top bloke :D

Joel,

Sure am mate :D Promotion @ work & a tidy bonus helped :) I've still got a few bits to be bought & fitted, seats etc...

The Missus actually asked me last night......

Her - "So what other things do you want to do to the car?"

Me - "Ahhhh..... quite a lot, why do you ask?"

Her - "Do you want a bigger turbo? 'Cause isn't the one you've got old & not good enough?"

Me - "YES I'd love a new turbo!!!!"

Her - "You've already spent enough for now"

Me - *under my breath* - 'damn it!'

GT-R seats will keep me happy in the short term :)

Matt, I just passed it on to the guy building my sub box, hopefully it will be done by monday.

My sus mods, ohlins coilovers, set only medium hard rear, pineapples and hardmount spacers for the rear cradle, whiteline swaybars, castor bushes - and I have a 1 way mech diff coming. I seriously need to do the adjustable camber thing - I might see if I can get some adjustable arms for a reasonable price, but if no luck I will do the whiteline kit thing - also want to piss off the hicas. Currently I am running some goodyear revspecs, which dont hold too well at WOT in first or second.

             ....

The Missus actually asked me last night......  

Her - "So what other things do you want to do to the car?"  

Me - "Ahhhh..... quite a lot, why do you ask?"

Her - "Do you want a bigger turbo? 'Cause isn't the one you've got old & not good enough?"

Me - "YES I'd love a new turbo!!!!"  

Her - "You've already spent enough for now"  

Me -  *under my breath* - 'damn it!'

GT-R seats will keep me happy in the short term :D

Matt, how typical of the fairer sex, raise the spirits with expectation, just so you fall harder when they pull the carpet out from underneath;)

Hey just curious wat either steve, freebaggin, greppin or whatsisname have done to there supension and diff for extra traction, if use have any traction.

Nice work on all your cars, use have all done very well for ur selves. Hope i make it to that stage myself, one day.

Well nothin TOO fancy for me in rear end:

King spings (progressive)

Bilstein shocks (used to get heaps of axle tramp at AIR when at 200rwkW but now none)

Superpro offset/adjust upper-arm polyurethane bushes (they give me 1° camber, up over 2° without which is too high for street applications)

Whilteline non-adjust solid swaybar

"Clint32" HICAS lock (not bad for an R32 scrubber :D )

Rear tyres are 265mm ZE326, nothin special but hook up surprisingly well at AIR, although not as good as RE540s.

I reckon Bridestone in Gouger are the best for wheel align but make sure you get a bloke that knows hi-po stuff now that Laurie has gone.

Matt, I just passed it on to the guy building my sub box, hopefully it will be done by monday.

My sus mods, ohlins coilovers, set only medium hard rear, pineapples and hardmount spacers for the rear cradle, whiteline swaybars, castor bushes - and I have a 1 way mech diff coming.  I seriously need to do the adjustable camber thing - I might see if I can get some adjustable arms for a reasonable price, but if no luck I will do the whiteline kit thing - also want to piss off the hicas.  Currently I am running some goodyear revspecs, which dont hold too well at WOT in first or second.

Matt, how typical of the fairer sex, raise the spirits with expectation, just so you fall harder when they pull the carpet out from underneath;)

Steve, see Clint32 re adjustable arms.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...