Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im pretty sure DATSPORT and MADDAT motorsport make something similar for the 1600 crew, very similar to the R30...

Stewart Wilkins in Syd will know too

maybe check it out?

http://www.datsport.com/suspension-menu.html

http://www.maddat.com.au/products/md032.htm

http://www.maddat.com.au/index.php

The SWR idea uses a sliding rose joint affair to adjust the rear camber and the cost is about $1000.00 for the mods.

If your competing your car in anything other than rallies, the rose joint puts you in Sports Sedan class.

Cheers, D

yea cheers guys, yea datsport wernt interseted when i meantioned r30 :)

swm reckon there isnt a bush good enough u can use to replce standard 1, but they do a few mods to the a arms allowing u to gain camber and toe adjustment which would be handy, but yea very pricy.... supposovely makes a massive differnce to how the drives. im headin up; there when i can to have a look at 1 .

i didnt no they used rose joints but by wat gostriders sayin im geussen it s fairly radical and would nt be very streetable

im keen to find out either way ..

cheers

Last time I spoke to Datsport, they were quoting $3500.00 for the rear adjustable conversion to an R30.

The SWR conversion is only to the trailing arms, not the cross member as well, like Datsport wanted to do.

It's big dollars no matter which way you choose, just to gain a lousy degree or so less camber.

Cheers, D

I use eccentric bushes in the rear of my DR30 rally car. They are made by K-MAC - part number 540526. About $350 last time I checked. They are the same part number as the bushes for 1600s and 180Bs. Fit perfectly. They come as a set of 4 bushes, but I would recommend only using 2 of them - one in each arm. Otherwise, you will have a bugger of a time with wheel alignments.

If your car has been lowered, then yes, every little bit of camber adjustment helps, but the real benefits are in adjusting the rear toe issue.

Edit: $320. Linky here: http://www.k-mac.com.au/Kmac_catalog.pdf

Edited by Matty T

Oh yeah, be prepared for some grief though. The original bushes are a pain in the bum to remove. It's easiest to burn them out with an oxy. But you have to get the metal outer sleeve out as well. This requires either, a) patience with a hacksaw blade (you don't want to score the bush housing), or b) use of a press.

Worth the effort though.

I use eccentric bushes in the rear of my DR30 rally car. They are made by K-MAC - part number 540526. About $350 last time I checked. They are the same part number as the bushes for 1600s and 180Bs. Fit perfectly. They come as a set of 4 bushes, but I would recommend only using 2 of them - one in each arm. Otherwise, you will have a bugger of a time with wheel alignments.

If your car has been lowered, then yes, every little bit of camber adjustment helps, but the real benefits are in adjusting the rear toe issue.

Edit: $320. Linky here: http://www.k-mac.com.au/Kmac_catalog.pdf

Item number:270230539666

yea so checked out the sw mod, the sw mod only changes the inner bush and leaves the outer standard, so makes sense wat matty t did.. i didnt have much luk with datsport so maybe it was me. still $3500 will get a gtr rear cradle in there, so either way way to much, i can imagine doing both, moving the mounting brakets and making the arms adjustble be a goood thing, sept stui reckons the box section mod on the inner a arm is all you need. the set up looks very simple with no rose joints, he said its very streetable and copletly legal still its $1100, then wear do u stop, do bearings while its out o and redo the shafts f me ill just keep buying my lotto tickets, ne day now...

hey matty t can you get much adjustment from the eccentric bushs ? i guess yes cos you said its worth the f around may go that way first as a lot cheapr,

cheers

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...