Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, My sisters R33 GTS-T's clutch is slipping very badly. The only way I can drive it is to slowly increase rpms. If I try to go quik, the engine just revs up and the car goes no where.

The clutch is a heavy duty triple plate something something (cant remember the rest). Ive driven the car when the clutch was good and it felt like it was either on or off it was that good. The strange thing is, that it doesnt smell or anything but it does shake a little.

So you think its def a bad clutch? or something else.

More than likely, clutch slipping = new clutch. If its slipping that badly it wont be creating the friction needed to make it smell. Unless you sit there letting it slip for long enough (dont). Either way take it very easy (dont drive it unless you need to) until you can get it checked out.

heh, mine was doing exactly the same thing, it was slipping like a bitch but no smell, one of my mates drove it one night without me in the car, came back and the car would not move at all now, been sitting in my garage for well over a month until i save up some money for a clutch :S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...