Jump to content
SAU Community

Opinions Wanted - Manual Conversion Or Buy Autech

25stagea

By 25stagea,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

25stagea Explorer

25stagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so whats the deal with this adaptor plate could you just weld up the holes and re-drill or is the gasket face of the sumps different.

also what would the auto handle as im thinking build motor , run in and then do manual conversion

lachy.

also thanks agin for the spin Neil , has made me think a lot ...

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
Posted
Ok so whats the deal with this adaptor plate could you just weld up the holes and re-drill or is the gasket face of the sumps different.

also what would the auto handle as im thinking build motor , run in and then do manual conversion

lachy.

also thanks agin for the spin Neil , has made me think a lot ...

No worrys mate.

Nice to take it out and give it a little, normally putting around in it with the kids etc.

Sell all your parts and your stagea and buy mine :)

RBPOWA-(TJ) Grand Master

RBPOWA-(TJ)

Posted
Posted

um, gotta find the list of whats been done.

but basically stage 2 valve body. upgraded clutch packs, band's, rings. welded some part to make it shift faster with no clutch riding. solenoids were upgraded. few other bits and pieces.

driving is fine, may hold gear for like 150rpm more when you just cruise it, but you dont really notice. when cold takes a little bit longer to get into 4th, i just drive to 60kmph in 3rd then speed up to around 70 and it drops into 4th then back off back to 60. but once warm there is no drama's with 4th gear. and it takes about 5mins to warm up after driving.

in sports mode it is realy fast, when you launch is 1st and slap it into second, you feel the wheels trying to chitp and the awd thing taking over for that split second.

in D its so smooth. wouldn't even know anything has been done, no roughness at all, not as harsh as some shift kits i've heard about.

looking at a Stall Converter later on also. see how that goes with the box.

  • 2 weeks later...
del_sol87 Enthusiast

del_sol87

Posted
Posted

hi guys i have a series 2 stagea rs4v and looking 2 convert it to a manual just wanna no how much it would cost to do it all.

just looking 4 a ball park figure.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...