Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bunch of standard parts in my garage after stripping my car..if somethings not listed shoot me a pm i probably got it...everyone knows what these parts look like so i didnt bother with pics but if you have genuine interest in a part and require pics no worries...

block + head (n1 water pump + hks 1.8mm headgasket + manifold+harmonic balancer pulleys etc etc) 1000$

diff 300$

front hubs + control arms 250$

tailshaft 100$

steering rack 150$

power steer pump 100$

power window reg $80

power window switches drives side 50$

climate control 100$

Crank angle sensor 80$

polished crank angle sensor 100$

throttle body 30$

plenum with t.b 60$

air con core 30$

ignitor 80$

engine loom 200$

coilpack loom 50$

injector loom x 2 50$ each

a pillar trim (no damage or drillholes) 30$ each

interior plastics (make an offer if needed)

dash 100$

seats front 50$ pair

bonnet 75$

cams 50$ pair

cam gears x 4 10$ each

coilpack cover 40$

air con fans x 2 50$ each

timing cover (top and lower) 40$

hicas 100$

water pump 30$

alternator 100$

fuel rail 30$

aac valve 50$

rear skyline garnish 50$

oxygen sensor 40$

side indicators orange 30$

standard jack 20$

spare wheel 50$

tailights 150$ pair

crossover pipe 25$

throttle cable 30$

door trims front rear 50$ full set

radiator over flow 20$

washer bottle 25$

seat belts 20$ each

center console (no lid) 40$

rear view mirror 30$

cam caps / bearings 120$

bonnet rod 10$

ignition barrel with key (free nismo key) 100$

indicator/ wiper stalks 35$ each.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286861-stripped-r33-standard-parts-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate im after a rb25 to drop in my vl i had a line but now stuck with a vl so im looking at a complete motor no turbo but looking for loom and acc to does this motor come with all of the trimming if nto how much for it all inc looms and acc please pm me a price

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...