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Dean, it sounds right. how close is the take off for the boost pressure to the turbo?

sounds like where you have the boost line coming, there is a bit of turbulance in the intercooler piping. This is a guess:) so dont hang me if I am wrong. but is based upon the fact that before you didnt have any probs, and if you have a good (unvarying) supply of boost pressure to the wastegate, it 'should' control it properly.

Try and get the boost pressure line from as close as possible to he compressor outlet - some turbos actually have the boost coming from the outlet before the compressed air leaves the turbo. either that or keep it away from pipe bends.

Did you just purely disconnect it? or did you feed it 12V (I read another post about someone feeding it 12V supposedly to keep it happy).

Is there a way to know whether its working or not? I guess the easiest way would be to keep an eye on the boost gauge and see if boost comes on in two stages...

You'd think that the eCU would know if the solenoid wasn't connected and report some error.

Well I had a stock boost setup. I removed the ECU signal to the solenoid and power the solenoid off the 12v ignition line. This enabled the solenoid to be open all the time and hence the car would boost to ~7psi as soon as possible instead of > 5000rpm.

If i was using a bleed valve I would not have to connect anything to the solenoid.

Steve: I take boost pressure from the rear of the plenum, which is where the standard feed is from. I think its somethin wrong with the bleeder, not the point of pressure. Could there be somethin wrong with the piping or cooler? When i accelerate i can feel a hesitation sometimes....

Pls help.

I can only suggest trying someone elses bleed valve, and check and double check every join on your pipework. Other than that, see if you can get a vacuum test done - to rule out any vacuum leaks.

Also, check the lines to the bleed valve and bleed to wastegate. I have some spare nice new Trust vacuum line that is yours if you want to give it a try. Or if you want to spend money, the Outlaw speed shop has some killer stuff - like the Jap line, not the soft stuff that is pretty common. It is pretty easy to damage, esp if it is the soft silicone type - not the good jap stuff.

Also, have you done the unichip thing yet?

I just changed all the hoses on the bleeder so it wouldnt be that, and the hoses is excellent quality.

There wouldnt be a loose connection in the pipes? cos the car idles fine and shows no leaks... Does that mean there isnt a leak?

Also im gettin the Unichip hopefully put in next week. Will see when my Cam gear gets here, cos i want to install and tune them both at the same time.

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